Archive for February 2010

The Beautiful and Interesting Angelfish

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Marbled AngelfishThe freshwater angelfish is one of the most popular of all tropical aquarium fish. The best known and most kept species of freshwater angelfish has the scientific name “pterophyllum scalare,” and this is the fish that will be discussed in the rest of this article.

Pterophyllum is Greek for “winged leaf” and scalare means “like a flight of stairs.” This name describes almost perfectly the angelfish’s unique shape and beautiful fins. Indeed very unique in shape and form, the angelfish has a striking, compressed body shape with long, extending dorsal and bottom fins. The fish is also often taller than it is long. In its natural habitat, the angelfish’s flat shape gives it good protection among roots and plants, where it will often cling to or lay flat against a vertical surface.

Freshwater angelfish are cichlids that originated in the Amazon region of South America, where their natural color is silvery with three brownish vertical stripes. They were first imported into Hamburg, Germany in 1911. A short while later they were brought into the United States where they were spawned in Philadelphia. After decades of selective breeding, today there are many varieties of the angelfish. Angelfish now come in beautiful colors and exotic patterns such as gold, silver, half black, all black, veiled, zebra lace, and black lace. There are other colors and patterns too, but these are the more common ones. Angelfish also tend to get more colorful as they grow, becoming even more striking and beautiful in appearance.

Another thing that makes the angelfish a fun fish to keep is that it can grow to a good size. You can start out with a couple of small, one-inch angelfish, and within 6 months to a year they could be 3 inches long with beautiful long, flowing fins and tails. In fact, the maximum size for the domestic aquarium angelfish is up to six inches in length, with upper and lower fins that can measure up to 10 inches from top to bottom. The veiled varieties of angelfish will usually have the longest fins.

Angelfish are also one of the most interesting fishes to keep. They have their own personalities and are not shy fish. They will usually come right up to you as you come up to the tank. However, this does not mean they are very aggressive fish, and that makes them great for keeping in a community aquarium. In fact, due to its peaceful temperament and appearance, the angelfish is one of the few cichlids that are commonly kept in decorative tanks or public displays with smaller types of fish. The only times angelfish may get aggressive are when they are feeding or spawning. Even when being aggressive, angelfish only tend to be aggressive with each other. For example, if more than one angelfish is kept, they will often develop a pecking order where the strongest – usually the biggest – will dominate the other angelfish.

As a side note, it is very interesting when you get a couple of angelfish to pair off. They will spend a lot of time together, side by side. They may even try to breed. If they do try to breed, you may want to get a book on angelfish or do some research on the internet. Angelfish breeding is a very popular and interesting hobby in itself, but you will need to find out what you need to do to get the eggs to hatch and raise young ones, as it can be quite involved.

You can keep angelfish with many other kinds of tropical fish. Gouramis, swordtails, and larger tetras make very good tank mates for angelfish, as would almost any other kind of fish that is big enough not to fit in the angelfish’s mouth. Thus, the only major rule to follow is do not keep angelfish with fish that could fit into their mouths, as angelfish may try to eat the very small fish. This means avoid putting fish like small guppies and neons with the angelfish, as these fish do not get large and could be eaten by a full-grown angelfish. Otherwise, if your angelfish and all of your other fish are healthy, normally the angelfish will not bother the other fish.

You do need to have very clean water to keep an angel. Efficient filtration and water changes are crucial. If water quality goes bad, angelfish are usually the first fish to show signs. The most ideal temperature range is between 76 and 82 degrees, although 75 to 86 is also tolerable. Soft, slightly acid water of pH 6.5 to 6.9 is most ideal for the angelfish, but as the fish is now domesticated it can tolerate a much wider range of pH 6.0 to 8.0. As with any fish, avoid sudden changes in ph and temperature.

Because angelfish are such tall fish, they do best in larger tanks. If you are planning to keep angelfish in a community aquarium, it should be at least a 20-gallon tank. The ideal is to have at least 10 gallons of water per adult angelfish. Driftwood, bogwoods, and floating, broad-leaved plants such as swords and java ferns are great decorations to use in an angelfish tank. They also make the angelfish feel safer and more at home. Angelfish can live from 5 to 8 years if cared for well.

Always remember not to overfeed your fish so that excess food does not get to the bottom or sucked up into the filter. You can feed your fish 2 or 3 times a day, but each time just feeding a small amount. Angelfish can survive on flake food alone, but they will thrive, grow larger, and be much more apt to breed on a greatly varied diet. Live foods such as adult brine shrimp, black worms, mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms and guppy fry are accepted with enthusiasm and should be included regularly for the best quality angelfish. If live food is not available, frozen and dry packages of blood worms (midge fly larvae), brine shrimp and others are available from your local pet store and are acceptable substitutions for the live food. Angelfish will also enjoy raw beef heart, just make sure the fat is all trimmed off.

Unique in shape, color, and personality, you will find the angelfish to be one of most interesting fish to keep.

Pet Care Tip – Bedding for Young Lizards

Friday, February 12th, 2010

If you have a juvenile bearded dragon,  leopard gecko or another type of lizard that normally might use calci-sand as a substrate, be careful.  These sands are usually okay for larger bearded dragons, and geckos, but not so good for young or small ones.

A small lizard could get some of this sand impacted in its mouth, throat, or even in its stomach.  They do this when going after a cricket or some other live food. As they make a grab for the insect, sometimes they will ingest some of the sand.  This can be harmful to these young lizards. So have caution with your juvenile lizards.  A safer substrate to use is reptile carpet.  Reptile bark is usually okay too.

Here are some substrates that are safe for your small lizard:

Zilla Tera Liner

Eco Carpet Liner

Fir Bark Litter

Repti Bark Bedding

Product Review: Petmate Hooded Cat Litter Pan

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

Hooded Cat Litter PanIf you have a cat, or have had a cat, you know that it is important to have a good litterbox to take care of your cat’s needs.  The Petmate hooded cat litter box is one of the better litter boxes around. This litter box comes in a couple of sizes, and comes with a removable hood. The hood will lock on, so your cat cannot remove it. With the lid on, it will contain all of the litter inside of the cat box.

This litter box also comes with a changeable charcoal filter to help with any cat odors. Most cats like the privacy of an enclosed litter box, and don’t mind at all going through the smaller opening in the front of the box.  These covered litter boxes come with either a translucent top to let more light in, or a solid plastic color.

Click here for more information:
Translucent Hood Cat Pan (large)
Translucent Hood Cat Pan (jumbo)
Hooded Pan Set (jumbo)
Hooded Pan Set Deluxe (large)
Hooded Pan Set Deluxe (jumbo)

Bird Care in a Nutshell

Monday, February 8th, 2010

ParakeetBirds make fascinating pets. They come with captivating personalities and hidden talents. In addition, many birds will live longer as a house pet than they would in the wild. For example, the parakeet can usually live ten to fifteen years with good care. Except for a few of the more exotic and larger birds, most birds are relatively easy to take care of and maintain as pets. In this article, we will look at some general guidelines for caring for your feathered friend, as well as some important precautions for maintaining your bird’s best health.

Bird Cages

The minimum cage size for a single bird is one wide enough for that bird to stretch both wings without touching either side, and tall enough so that the head and tail of the bird never touches the top or bottom. This is the bare minimum size. Larger cages are always recommended. Even if a cage looks big enough for your bird when empty, it can quickly become cluttered with the addition of food bowls, toys, and perches. Birds are made for constant movement if not flying, so it is your responsibility to your pet to provide a home capable of entertainment and exercise.

Round cages are no longer recommended for most birds. Canaries and finches prefer rectangle-shaped cages that are more wide than tall. Other birds are happier in square or tall rectangular homes. Take note of bar spacing and thickness as well. A bird should never be able to stick its head through the bars as it may turn its head and get stuck. Thin bars spaced 3/8 to 1/2 inch apart are fine for finches, canaries, parakeets, lovebirds, and cockatiels. Larger and stronger birds such as conures, cockatoos, and parrots require heavier bars that are spaced about 5/8 to 1 inch apart. Many of these birds are very active and powerful, so make sure to get strong and high-quality cages for them.

Finally, get a crushed cob litter or something similar for putting on the bottom of the cage, and change this lining at least once a week. The bird’s cage should be placed in the room where the family or owner spends the most time, but not the kitchen (the reasons for this are described below in the Precautions section). Depending on the size of the cage and the weight of your bird, the cage can be hung from a wall bracket or a ceiling chain, or placed on a table or some other stand.

Food and Feeding

Some cages come with feeding dishes that hang just on the inside of the cage and that can be retrieved through smaller side doors. This will make daily maintenance considerably easier than those having loose dishes inside the cage which have to be retrieved out through the main cage door. Most birds should have at least 2 dishes in their cage: one for formulated/vitamin-enriched pellets or seed, one for water. Keeping your bird’s food and water fresh is very important. Clean and change the water and food bowls daily to avoid the growth of bacteria. It is also important to keep your bird’s food and water replenished. A bird can starve in a short amount of time if it runs out of food.

Besides the regular bird food and water mentioned earlier, it is also good to offer your bird a cuttlebone and some millet sprays. A cuttlebone will provide a bird with the calcium it needs, and help keep the bird’s beak trim and from becoming too long. Millet sprays are a favorite snack of birds and it is also very entertaining to watch birds eat them. Lastly, there is an optional item for birds called grit. Grit is made from small pieces of sand and oyster shell. It is used to aid digestion in birds who eat their seed whole, such as doves, canaries, and finches. Some cuttlebones come with grit in them already. Parakeets, cockatiels and other hook-billed birds crack their seeds before eating and do not need grit.

Birds can generally eat anything humans can eat – as long as it is healthy! Chocolate, avocados, and onions are considered to be toxic to birds and should never be allowed. Foods which are high in fat, sugar, salt, grease, preservatives and other artificial fillers should not be fed either. Dairy products should also be avoided as most birds are lactose intolerant and cannot digest these foods.

Most birds also enjoy supplements of raw fruits and vegetables, but they should be offered in moderation. Also, when feeding fresh foods, never leave them in the cage for more than a few hours. Bacteria can quickly build up on such items, causing your bird to become ill. Vitamin supplements can be good for birds (but make sure not to overdose), especially if your bird is a picky eater and won’t eat its vegetables. If your bird is eating a pellet diet, vitamins are not needed.

Precautions

Quaker perched on fingerAir is the biggest concern for a bird owner. Birds have a respiratory system that works very different from ours. For example, a bird can breathe in air four times as fast as a human, and therefore it can breathe in much more toxic fumes, smoke, and other pollutants than a human. Some major things to keep away from your bird are:

  • Gas and kerosene heaters
  • Aerosol spray products (hair spray, water-proofing spray, air freshener spray)
  • Cigarette smoke
  • Rodenticides, flea/tick controllers and other pesticides
  • Nail polish or other kinds of polish (floor polish, shoe polish, nail polish remover)
  • Plug-in air fresheners and scented candles (in addition to the fumes, the burning wick puts out enough carbon monoxide to harm your bird’s health)
  • House paint, paint thinner, paint remover
  • Teflon cookware (When heated, Teflon cookware emits a fume that is extremely dangerous to birds. The fume does not harm us, but can kill your bird)
  • Keep your bird away from houseplants, as some can be poisonous to your bird

The above is not a complete list. Most items that emit any sort of unnatural fumes and scents are potentially harmful. The rule of thumb is simply not to use scented products around your bird, for example do not wash out your bird’s cage or bowls with scented detergents. This does not mean that you cannot use any of these items. However, anytime your home must be sprayed or fogged for some reason, remove your bird from the home completely, and the house must be thoroughly aired out before the bird can be brought back in. Dust and fumes are also often associated with home improvement or remodeling. In addition, such projects can also cause stress for your bird. Again, if needed, simply place your bird in a different room or take them outside.

Make sure to wash your hands before handling your bird. This is to prevent what is called “fouling the feathers” – the rubbing off of nicotine, tar, cleaners, salt or sugar from snack foods, or other pollutants from your hands on to the bird. Of course, for your safety and cleanliness, do also wash your hands after handling your bird as well. A humidifier can be added to your home to benefit your bird’s skin and feathers (as well as your skin and hair), and it may also have other health benefits.

All birds should be watched for signs of illness. Illness takes its toll on birds especially quickly, and their health will deteriorate very rapidly if untreated. Birds which may be ill include those who sit motionless and fluffed up, those who are reluctant to eat, and those who have discharge coming from their mouths or nostrils with sneezing or wheezing.

If you decide that you want to let your bird out of the cage once in a while, it is strongly recommended that you clip your bird’s wings short so that it cannot fly. A bird will easily fly out any open or cracked windows, and may even fly into closed windows. Birds who can fly will also usually perch on top of open doors, becoming injured or killed when the door is unknowingly closed. Birds will drown quickly as well – so keep toilet bowls and other water-filled containers covered. Always keep your bird’s wings clipped to avoid such tragedies. Finally, clipping a bird’s wings will make it easier to tame.

Avoid putting the bird cage near a heating or cooling vent due to temperature variations and fumes which may be harmful. Although birds enjoy looking out the window, the cage should not be placed where drafts can come in or sunlight can overheat the cage. Most birds are quite comfortable with temperatures around the 60 to 70 temperature range. Full-spectrum lighting commonly used for reptiles can be used to help heat and light the bird cage. Do not leave your bird in the car during warm months or place them outdoors in direct sunlight. Signs of overheating include panting or holding the wings out from the body.

As mentioned earlier, your bird should not be allowed in the kitchen, whether it is in its cage or outside of its cage. For loose birds, dangers in the kitchen include open pots of boiling water or other heating foods, as well as hot stoves. For caged birds, the kitchen still offers toxic fumes as well as hot temperatures.

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Pet Care Tip – Trimming Your Bird’s Toenails and Wings

Friday, February 5th, 2010

If you have a pet bird, it is a good idea to keep its toenails trimmed.  A bird with long toenails can get caught on the bars of his cage.  Your bird could also tear a toe if it gets caught and tries to free itself.

When trimming your bird’s toenails, make sure you use one of the special small bird nail trimmers. It is fairly easy to do for small birds. For medium to larger birds, it is a good idea to have another person hold the bird in a towel and just pull one foot out to trim the nails. This way you can avoid getting bitten by the bird. It is also a good idea to buy some styptic powder, just in case you trim a nail too short and bleeding results. This powder will stop the bleeding instantly.

It’s not a bad idea to also keep the wings trimmed on your bird. A lot of  times a bird will have its wings trimmed when you buy it at the pet shop.  But if you need to trim them yourself, it’s fairly easy to do. Usually, just the flight feathers get trimmed.  Again, it helps to have another person with a towel hold the bird and pull one wing out at a time. Cut the feathers from the underside a half inch to one inch from the inner row of short feathers. Make sure that you don’t cut too short, as you may cut into your bird. Cut the flight feathers in a straight line.  Normally this is quick and painless.

If you aren’t sure where to cut, or how to do this, most good pet shops will trim wings for you if you bring your bird in, and they can show you how to do this.

A good reason for trimming your bird’s wings is that if he ever gets loose in the house he won’t be able to fly out the door, into a ceiling fan, or into a window.  Birds with trimmed wings are also usually easier to tame and train.

Supplies you will need for clipping your bird’s nails and wings:

Bird Claw Clipper

Bird Wing Clip Scissors

Blood Stopper Powder