Archive for September 2010

Saltwater Fish and Marine Aquariums

Monday, September 27th, 2010

Yellow and white clownfishTropical fish are classified into tropical freshwater fish and tropical saltwater fish. Most people keep tropical freshwater fish, but interest in the more exotic tropical saltwater fish is growing. Tropical saltwater fish are also called marine fish, and they are some of the most fascinating and colorful animals in the world. A lot of these fish look like they have been painted with very bright and vivid colors. They also tend to vary more in shape and size than their freshwater counterparts – often looking very unusual and exotic. Furthermore, their swimming and socializing habits are very different as well.

In the wild, saltwater fish live in oceans and seas while freshwater fish are found in rivers and lakes. Saltwater fish are a bit harder to find (they are however available at Pet World) and take a little more work to maintain than freshwater fish, but having these exotic creatures thrive in your home makes the little bit of extra time and work well worth it. Here is a list of some of the most popular saltwater fish that people keep: saltwater angelfish, saltwater puffer fish, dragon eels, dragon gobies, damsels, and clownfish (personified by Nemo the clownfish from the popular movie “Finding Nemo”).

As you might expect, maintenance of saltwater fish is a little different than that for freshwater fish. However, a lot of the basics are still the same. As with freshwater fish aquariums, you will need a filter system, a heater, and a thermometer. An under-gravel carbon-type power or pump filter is a good choice for a filter system. You would also set the tank up just as you would a freshwater tank: put the under-gravel filter plate flat on the bottom of the tank, rinse out the gravel, add the gravel into the aquarium to a depth of about 2 inches on top of the under-gravel filter plate, and then hook up your filter, pump, and heater.

Next, fill the tank up with water. Then, plug everything in and try to set the tank temperature to about 78 degrees (a range from 76 to 80 degrees is usually fine), which is a good average temperature for most saltwater fish. PH levels vary for different types of saltwater fish and need to be looked up, or you can ask us when you decide which of type of saltwater fish you get. After making sure you have a tank water temperature of around 78 degrees and that the water is clear, you are ready to move on. Bring in a tank water sample of about 8 ounces to us to get it tested, just to make sure that everything is okay. You may want to invest in a test kit to test your tank water regularly, or you can bring it in to Pet World and get it tested regularly.

Now let us look at some of the differences in the maintenance of saltwater fish versus freshwater fish. To start, you will need a little larger tank for saltwater fish than you would need for a comparable size and number of freshwater fish. Second of all, you will need to add some salt to the water to simulate seawater, and you will need a hydrometer to test the salt content of your tank water. Add and mix in the salt carefully and a bit at a time. As an example, if you are setting up a 20-gallon tank, you should first add enough salt for about 15 gallons. Always use less than what you think it will take, as it is easier to add salt than it is to take water out and dilute it. Finally, saltwater fish will do better with crushed coral gravel or coral-based sand.

With the filter circulating the water and salt mix, it should not take too long for the salt to mix in. When the water looks clear, and the temperature is about 78 degrees, check the salt density with a hydrometer, and you want to shoot for about 1.020 on the scale. Now your aquarium is considered set up. Remember that after you set up your aquarium, you will still need to let your aquarium get “established” before adding any fish, just as with a freshwater tank. Aquariums are considered established after 6 to 8 weeks. Established means that there are enough beneficial bacteria present to break down the toxins and any other waste in the water, and that there has been enough time for the tank water to go through the ammonia and nitrite cycles. Establishment is very important, so please wait patiently.

Red and White ClownfishFor the happiest saltwater fish and maximum enjoyment by the owner, most saltwater fish hobbyists try to create and thereby duplicate a small part of the ocean, in all its natural beauty and breathtaking splendor, inside their aquarium. The resulting environment is often termed a “mini-reef” or “miniature reef.” People achieve this by adding real or artificial coral (also available at Pet World) to their saltwater tank, and even marine invertebrates such as plankton shrimp.

Let us now take a look at which saltwater fish are good choices for beginners. Clownfish, and their cousins the damsels, are among the most popular fish in saltwater aquariums. Both clownfish and damsels are considered beautiful and very hardy saltwater fish that also get along well with most other tankmates. There are also many different colors and types of clownfish you can choose from such as Cinnamon Clownfish (which just by itself comes in red, black, and “fire” subspecies), Clark’s Clownfish, False Percula Clownfish, Percula Clownfish, and Pink Skunk Clownfish.

Another good saltwater fish to start with is the very exotic and unusual-looking dragon eel. This fish is usually brown with white and orange or yellow spots, and can grow up to 3 feet in the wild. In addition, it has a mouth filled with fang-like teeth which it keeps open almost all the time, as well as two antennae that look like horns, making it look just like a funny little dragon. Saltwater counterparts of the angelfish and puffer fish are also available for the marine aquarium hobbyist, and these fish are considered pretty hardy saltwater fish as well.

Finally, you may also have heard of brackish water and brackish fish. Brackish water means containing a mixture of seawater and fresh water, and brackish fish are those hardy fish that can survive in both freshwater and saltwater environments, given some time for adjustment and acclimation. Mollies and dragon gobies are two examples. You can first try adding brackish fish to your saltwater tank if you have not yet decided on a true saltwater fish yet.

So, basically, the guideline is you should only start with just a few, hardy saltwater or brackish fish in your marine/saltwater aquarium. Feed your saltwater fish sparingly just like you would for freshwater fish, feed them about 1 or 2 times per day and give a few flakes per fish each time. And that is about all there is to setting up a saltwater aquarium. Give these exotic and beautiful fish a try! You will be one very admired fish owner and hobbyist!

All About Rats and Mice

Monday, September 20th, 2010

A Cute MouseThough it is not a very well-known fact, rats and mice have been selectively bred and tamed for many, many generations. The select few wild mice and rats have over the centuries evolved into the gentle and trusting pet rodents that many of us share our homes with today. In addition, rats and mice both have very fascinating histories – these small animals are certainly more than meets the eye!

Mice

Mice have been used for many purposes over many centuries by all kinds of people, and are originally believed to be from the Asia and Central Asia regions. Mice were used by the Chinese in religious rituals as early as 1100 B.C. and were referred to as the “ancient ones”, while the Japanese believed them to be a messenger from the gods. In addition, the Romans and the Greeks used them to predict the future and even worshipped them.

Besides being worshipped and admired, wild mice – of which there are a number of different subspecies – have been selectively bred for coat color, temperament, and health for well over 1000 years. Over time, these specially bred mice have become what we know as today’s domesticated mice, also known as pet mice or fancy mice.

Today there are many different varieties of domesticated mice and they all make wonderful pets. Unfortunately for them, instead of being worshipped or loved, these domesticated mice now more often end up in laboratories (usually with unpleasant ends) than in your local pet store. The most common domestic mice are the white albino ones which were (and still are) used in laboratories. Sailors and miners have also used mice to test air quality in submarines and mines – and though sometimes this is necessary for some people it usually again ends up in the suffering and/or death of these mice. It is the lucky and happy mouse that gets adopted by a pet lover.

The domesticated mouse is a curious little creature that makes a very interesting companion and a great pet. Mice are small, inexpensive, and very easy to care for. They are very clean animals that continually groom themselves by licking and combing their fur. Mice are nocturnal and will spend most of the day sleeping. At dusk, dawn, and throughout the night, mice are very active. A healthy and awake mouse is always on the go and will rarely sit still for more than a minute to eat, groom, or for a pet.

Domesticated mice are much more docile than their wild counterparts. If handled often and gently, mice generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. Mice have a life span of 1 to 3 years if well taken care of, and are a great first pet for children. However, mice should be kept away from the other pets of the house (dogs, cats, birds). They should also be kept away from other rodents such as rats, because rats are their natural predators.

Mice are very sociable creatures and like to have company. One mouse can do fine as a pet, but they very much appreciate having friends of their own kind. Female mice usually get along very well with other females. Do not get males together unless they grew up together (part of the same litter or family) because they will tend to fight, and especially if females are present. Therefore, it is best to keep mice of the same gender, preferably females. There are no marked gender-related differences in size, fur texture, or personalities with mice. Male mice do give off much more odor than female mice.

Rats

Like mice, rats are also thought to have originally come from Asia or Central Asia. When they were introduced to Europe in the Middle Ages, unfortunately they were most well known historically for contributing to the bubonic plague there. At about the same time, albino mutants made their appearance in wild populations, which is a common occurrence in the case of wild mammals. Interestingly – and in contrast to white mice who often ended up in laboratories – these white rats were considered highly attractive and distinctive, and thus were captured and tamed by humans. Therefore, albinos were most likely the first domesticated rats to be kept as pets. Referred to historically as being “wild” and “savage”, the wild rat has over the centuries through selective breeding evolved into the gentle and trusting pet rat some of us share our homes with today.

Like mice, rats are also very social animals, so it is highly recommended that you get pairs or trios. Females are smaller and considerably more active than males and their fur is softer. On the other hand, males are normally happier sitting on your lap and having you scratch their head. Rats are more communal and, in contrast to mice, several males and females may be kept together. Aggression between rats is generally much more infrequent than in mice. However, it is also okay to have only one rat as long as it is given a lot of attention.

Although bigger than mice, rats are also relatively inexpensive pets and are very easy to care for. They are docile and gentle by nature as well, and generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. Rats, like mice, are great companions for children. However they should be kept away from other household pets unless they are well acquainted with each other. Sometimes rats can become good friends with dogs or cats. Never house rats with other rodents though, such as mice, hamsters, or gerbils, because they will usually attack them. The average lifespan of a pet rat is between 2 and 3 years.

Getting Acquainted With Your Rat or Mouse

As mentioned earlier, domesticated mice and rats are much more docile and gentle than their wild counterparts. If handled often and gently, they generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. The best way to pick them up is to grab the middle of their tail gently and then place them in the palm of your other hand. If they are very familiar with you, you can pick them up directly. Unlike mice, rats should not be picked up by the tail. The best way to pick up a pet rat is to place one hand over the back, just behind the head, gently grasp it around the ribcage and lift it upward. The rat can then be gently cradled against the your body, without much restraint necessary.

When you first bring your mouse or rat home, give it 2 to 3 days to get comfortable in its new surroundings (cage or aquarium usually) without bothering it at all. Once it is comfortable in its new home, get it comfortable with you. The easiest and quickest way to do this is by letting them run around in some of your clothes so that they get used to your scent, or let them run around on you! Do this for at least 10 minutes a day, and by the end of 3 weeks, most mice and rats will be comfortable enough with you that they will immediately step onto your presented hand. Upon their first interactions with humans, most mice or rats will be quite cautious and nervous. This is quite understandable, as everything seems big and dangerous to them, so be patient with them.

Mice and rats can also be eventually taught simple tricks, such as taking food from your fingers once they are comfortable with you and even retrieving treats from your pocket. With lots of patience, they can learn more sophisticated things such as climbing ladders, walking “tightropes”, racing, and traveling through mazes. Some rats and mice have even been known to be taught to respond to a name and come when they are called, and riding around on your shoulder. Of course, one of the best ways to train them to do tricks is to reward them with a treat every time they do something right.

You and your mouse or rat are now ready to travel, explore, and have lots of fun together. Everything still seems big and dangerous to your pet rodent, but it now trusts you for its protection.

What is Ich and What do You do About It?

Monday, September 13th, 2010

Healthy Fish without IchIch, pronounced “ick”, is the abbreviation for ichthyophthirius multifilius, a one-celled parasitic organism that often attacks aquarium and pond fish. The common parasitic disease that is caused by this organism in fish is also called ich. A parasitic disease is a disease that is caused by a parasite, which is an organism that lives on or derives its nourishment from some other living animal or plant. The ich attaches itself to the fish and feeds on it just as a tick or flea would do to a dog.

Ich is one of the most common parasitic diseases that fish get. In fact, the ich organism itself is almost always present in an aquarium, and even on the fish too. Normally, healthy fish in a healthy aquarium would not be affected by low levels of ich and thus would probably not develop the disease. This is because healthy fish usually have very good antibodies, plus a strong slime coating that helps protect them against disease. However, if a fish gets stressed out enough, it will become more vulnerable to ich. The fish’s immunity will break down enough such that the ich parasite is able to burrow into the fish’s skin to feed and start doing damage. Then your fish has the disease, ich.

A Fish With IchYou can usually tell when fish have this disease, because the fish will have several small white spots on its body and fins. The spots will be a little smaller than grains of salt. Now, the parasite itself is microscopic and is not visible. The white spots you see on the fish are not the parasite, this is the fish skin’s reaction to the parasite, much like mosquito bites or bee stings in humans. You may also see the fish scratching and rubbing itself against rocks and gravel in order to sooth its irritation.

If allowed to progress untreated into advanced stages, ich may cause the fish to become lethargic and even die. In advanced stages of ich, the fish’s skin will show redness or even bloody streaks. Even if the fish does not die, the tissue damage caused is a major threat to fish health and can be the site for secondary bacterial or fungal infections. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, it can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet or habitat. The disease is also contagious and spreads very easily. Thus, ich must be treated if you want to maintain the health of your aquarium and all the fish in it.

Fish – especially overstressed fish – can get ich easily and can even die from it, but fortunately as you can see ich it is very easy to spot. And it is also quite easy to treat and cure. Medications for ich are readily available at your local pet store and are highly effective. Malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride are some of the most effective chemical medications for treating ich. They are available under several brand names such as Maracide and Quick Cure.

To understand the treatment, it is important to note that the ich parasite lives out its life in two stages: the cyst or single-celled microscopic stage, and then the cell division or free-swimming stage. The ich parasite is in its cyst stage when it first burrows into the fish’s skin to feed. In 3 to 5 days it will become mature, release itself from the fish, and fall to the bottom of the tank where it will reproduce by cell division. Just one of these parasites can produce anywhere from 100 to 1000 other parasites, who will then spread throughout the aquarium looking for new hosts to infect, or in this case new fish to dine on! These parasites are now considered in the free-swimming stage.

It is only during the second stage, the free-swimming stage, that you can kill the parasites with medication because they are in the water outside of the protection of the fish’s body. Now is your chance to kill them before they all burrow to safety inside your fish again! So, the following are the specific steps to follow in order to treat and cure an ich outbreak:

  1. Make a one third water change to make sure that the water quality is optimum. If you are not sure if it is good, bring a sample in to Pet World to get it tested.
  2. If you have tropical fish, remember that the best temperature for most tropical fish is around 78 degrees, although 76 to 80 degrees is still a good range.
  3. Make sure that all filters are working well, with plenty of aeration and circulation. Remove the carbon from the filter before applying medication, as the carbon would remove the medication prematurely.
  4. Add the proper dose of medication to the tank. Be careful not to get any on your clothes or on the aquarium lid or tank, as it is very staining.
  5. Keep the proper dose in the aquarium for at least 10 days, and it will take this long to kill any new parasites.
  6. Monitor the water conditions to make sure they stay at optimum, so the fish can build up their resistance and help fight the parasite.
  7. When it has been 10 days, and you haven’t seen any parasites or the white spots associated with them on the fish for at least 4 days, make another one third water change, and add fresh carbon back into the aquarium filter.

Of course, the best cure for ich is prevention. Try to keep the fish as stress-free as possible. Maintaining high water quality, avoiding temperature and pH fluctuations, and providing a robust diet are the best preventatives for ich and many other fish diseases. For your information, here is a specific list of some of the things that can cause stress in a fish:

  • Poor water quality, such as water with ammonia or nitrite.
  • A rapid change in temperature, usually a drop, or water that is too cold. For tropical fish, going from the ideal of about 78 degrees to about 70 degrees or less could cause ich.
  • A rapid change in the pH of the water. pH is a measure of the alkaline or acid content of the water. The water at Pet World is usually kept between 7.6 and 7.8 in pH. If the fish are transferred into water that is either too high, 8.8 to 9, or too low, 6.8 or lower, then this may be enough stress to cause ich.
  • Sometimes, just the trip home in the car can cause the temperature to rise or fall to an 8 or 10 degree difference, and this can cause ich. And if they are kept in the bag too long, such as more than 2 hours, it can cause a build-up of ammonia depending on the fish size, and this can be very stressful.
  • Sometimes an aggressive fish chasing or harassing another fish can be enough stress to cause a fish to come down with ich. This is why you should make sure the fish in your community aquarium are as relatively compatible in size and/or aggressiveness as possible.
  • Poor or inadequate diet.

Why Did My Cat Do That?

Monday, September 6th, 2010

Cat In GrassCat and kitten behaviors can be a little hard to understand sometimes, but they are very interesting whether you are interacting with them or just watching them. Many of these behaviors also have important meanings, so it is useful for the cat owner to get familiar with and understand some of these behaviors. Some of the most common and significant behaviors that cats and kittens display are explained below.

When a cat approaches a person while holding its tail straight up like a pole, it is a sign of friendly trust. When a cat flicks its upright tail at you while standing or walking, it is also meant to convey friendliness and greetings. In another variation, the tail is up but undulating (wavelike movement), and this possibly suggests that the cat has mildly conflicting emotions towards you or something in the environment.

When a kitten or cat rubs its head on a person, it is called bunting. The cat deposits a small amount of pheromone (a harmless chemical secreted by some animals) from scent glands just in front of the ears. Sharing this communicates, “We’re part of the same family, and I want to be close to you.” A cat may also bump you with the front part of its head, this is known as head bonks, and it is also a friendly and affectionate gesture. However, despite the common misconception, cats are not really showing great love when they rub against you with the back of their head and the rest of their body. It´s just cat instinct to mark you with their scent – they are actually claiming you as their territory.

Perhaps the highest compliment a feline can pay to a human is to flop. A cat flopping over on its side is demonstrating a very level of high bonding and trust with its human companion because it exposing its soft and vulnerable underbelly. However, a cat completely on its back and exposing its entire underside is not being submissive, but is preparing for battle. This is because by completely rolling onto its back, the cat can then make full use of its natural weapons by exposing its claws on all four feet as well as its teeth. This is a cat’s ultimate defensive-aggressive posture and is sometimes seen in very engaged catfights.

You may have seen a cat or kitten play by crouching or flattening itself to the floor, twitching its tail, walking very slowly forward, and then suddenly pouncing onto a cat toy or other object it has been watching for a while. These games prepare a kitten to hunt for a living, while a grown cat will play these games to practice its hunting skills. Indeed, cats are naturally skillful hunters. In the wild, the goal is a sudden attack from above and behind, landing with a killing bite on the back of the prey animal’s neck. Thus, at home you will see that kittens and cats are both very easily induced to play hunting games, and kittens especially may spend many hours playing these games.

Felines in the wild will also often play with their live, captured prey by batting it around with their paws for a while, in order to try to learn the escape moves of their prey. At home, you will often see domestic kittens and cats exhibiting the same behavior with a cat toy, or even with a piece of paper, which is of course quite harmless.

Grey KittenCats love to scratch. They do this to stretch and exercise their muscles, keep healthy nails, unwind from stress, and for many other reasons. Now, scratched furniture does not have to automatically occur when one keeps a cat. However, until taught otherwise, cats will scratch whatever feels good, whenever they feel like it. Provide at least one scratching post for each cat or kitten you have. If you notice your cat or kitten scratching inappropriately, gently pick it up and redirect it to the closest post. You can also try applying catnip to the post and scratch it yourself with your nails to demonstrate.

Cats also like heights and climbing. You can provide a tall cat tree to give the cat an alternative place to jump, climb, and play if you would like them to stay off bookshelves and other furniture. It is also a good idea to have plenty of cat toys available, and redirect your kitten or cat to play with those toys. The kitten that has good toys to play and exercise with, and that receives praise for proper play and behavior, will more likely grow into an adult cat that plays and behaves properly.

A cat is most likely angry or afraid if it displays flattened ears, wide open eyes, a lashing tail or a straightened tail with bristled fur, and agitated meows that turn into growling, snarling, hissing or sometimes even spitting. This display is called fear-induced or defensive aggression. A severely angry or frightened cat needs to be left alone – give it some time to cool off and calm down. A cat that is terrified is not thinking clearly and may view any attempts to comfort it as a threat.

Never punish a kitten or cat for aggressive behavior! Cats do not learn from any of the kinds of punishment or rebuke that one might use with dogs or children. Instead of changing the misbehavior, the cat is more likely to become afraid of you permanently – severely damaging your relationship with your cat, and it will become even more aggressive in the future. The fear-induced or defensive aggression mentioned in the previous paragraph will be a cat’s natural reaction to punishment, especially physical punishment. Understanding your cat’s behaviors and providing it with good toys, treats, praise, and essential accessories such as a scratching post will help ensure a happy, healthy, and well-behaved cat.

There is also a more detailed article on the subject of cat scratching posts on the Pet World facts page which you may find useful. Click here to get to it.