In the wild, saltwater fish live in oceans and seas while freshwater fish are found in rivers and lakes. Saltwater fish are a bit harder to find (they are however available at Pet World) and take a little more work to maintain than freshwater fish, but having these exotic creatures thrive in your home makes the little bit of extra time and work well worth it. Here is a list of some of the most popular saltwater fish that people keep: saltwater angelfish, saltwater puffer fish, dragon eels, dragon gobies, damsels, and clownfish (personified by Nemo the clownfish from the popular movie “Finding Nemo”).

As you might expect, maintenance of saltwater fish is a little different than that for freshwater fish. However, a lot of the basics are still the same. As with freshwater fish aquariums, you will need a filter system, a heater, and a thermometer. An under-gravel carbon-type power or pump filter is a good choice for a filter system. You would also set the tank up just as you would a freshwater tank: put the under-gravel filter plate flat on the bottom of the tank, rinse out the gravel, add the gravel into the aquarium to a depth of about 2 inches on top of the under-gravel filter plate, and then hook up your filter, pump, and heater.

Next, fill the tank up with water. Then, plug everything in and try to set the tank temperature to about 78 degrees (a range from 76 to 80 degrees is usually fine), which is a good average temperature for most saltwater fish. PH levels vary for different types of saltwater fish and need to be looked up, or you can ask us when you decide which of type of saltwater fish you get. After making sure you have a tank water temperature of around 78 degrees and that the water is clear, you are ready to move on. Bring in a tank water sample of about 8 ounces to us to get it tested, just to make sure that everything is okay. You may want to invest in a test kit to test your tank water regularly, or you can bring it in to Pet World and get it tested regularly.

Now let us look at some of the differences in the maintenance of saltwater fish versus freshwater fish. To start, you will need a little larger tank for saltwater fish than you would need for a comparable size and number of freshwater fish. Second of all, you will need to add some salt to the water to simulate seawater, and you will need a hydrometer to test the salt content of your tank water. Add and mix in the salt carefully and a bit at a time. As an example, if you are setting up a 20-gallon tank, you should first add enough salt for about 15 gallons. Always use less than what you think it will take, as it is easier to add salt than it is to take water out and dilute it. Finally, saltwater fish will do better with crushed coral gravel or coral-based sand.

With the filter circulating the water and salt mix, it should not take too long for the salt to mix in. When the water looks clear, and the temperature is about 78 degrees, check the salt density with a hydrometer, and you want to shoot for about 1.020 on the scale. Now your aquarium is considered set up. Remember that after you set up your aquarium, you will still need to let your aquarium get “established” before adding any fish, just as with a freshwater tank. Aquariums are considered established after 6 to 8 weeks. Established means that there are enough beneficial bacteria present to break down the toxins and any other waste in the water, and that there has been enough time for the tank water to go through the ammonia and nitrite cycles. Establishment is very important, so please wait patiently.

For the happiest saltwater fish and maximum enjoyment by the owner, most saltwater fish hobbyists try to create and thereby duplicate a small part of the ocean, in all its natural beauty and breathtaking splendor, inside their aquarium. The resulting environment is often termed a “mini-reef” or “miniature reef.” People achieve this by adding real or artificial coral (also available at Pet World) to their saltwater tank, and even marine invertebrates such as plankton shrimp.

Let us now take a look at which saltwater fish are good choices for beginners. Clownfish, and their cousins the damsels, are among the most popular fish in saltwater aquariums. Both clownfish and damsels are considered beautiful and very hardy saltwater fish that also get along well with most other tankmates. There are also many different colors and types of clownfish you can choose from such as Cinnamon Clownfish (which just by itself comes in red, black, and “fire” subspecies), Clark’s Clownfish, False Percula Clownfish, Percula Clownfish, and Pink Skunk Clownfish.

Another good saltwater fish to start with is the very exotic and unusual-looking dragon eel. This fish is usually brown with white and orange or yellow spots, and can grow up to 3 feet in the wild. In addition, it has a mouth filled with fang-like teeth which it keeps open almost all the time, as well as two antennae that look like horns, making it look just like a funny little dragon. Saltwater counterparts of the angelfish and puffer fish are also available for the marine aquarium hobbyist, and these fish are considered pretty hardy saltwater fish as well.

Finally, you may also have heard of brackish water and brackish fish. Brackish water means containing a mixture of seawater and fresh water, and brackish fish are those hardy fish that can survive in both freshwater and saltwater environments, given some time for adjustment and acclimation. Mollies and dragon gobies are two examples. You can first try adding brackish fish to your saltwater tank if you have not yet decided on a true saltwater fish yet.

So, basically, the guideline is you should only start with just a few, hardy saltwater or brackish fish in your marine/saltwater aquarium. Feed your saltwater fish sparingly just like you would for freshwater fish, feed them about 1 or 2 times per day and give a few flakes per fish each time. And that is about all there is to setting up a saltwater aquarium. Give these exotic and beautiful fish a try! You will be one very admired fish owner and hobbyist!

Mice

Mice have been used for many purposes over many centuries by all kinds of people, and are originally believed to be from the Asia and Central Asia regions. Mice were used by the Chinese in religious rituals as early as 1100 B.C. and were referred to as the “ancient ones”, while the Japanese believed them to be a messenger from the gods. In addition, the Romans and the Greeks used them to predict the future and even worshipped them.

Besides being worshipped and admired, wild mice – of which there are a number of different subspecies – have been selectively bred for coat color, temperament, and health for well over 1000 years. Over time, these specially bred mice have become what we know as today’s domesticated mice, also known as pet mice or fancy mice.

Today there are many different varieties of domesticated mice and they all make wonderful pets. Unfortunately for them, instead of being worshipped or loved, these domesticated mice now more often end up in laboratories (usually with unpleasant ends) than in your local pet store. The most common domestic mice are the white albino ones which were (and still are) used in laboratories. Sailors and miners have also used mice to test air quality in submarines and mines – and though sometimes this is necessary for some people it usually again ends up in the suffering and/or death of these mice. It is the lucky and happy mouse that gets adopted by a pet lover.

The domesticated mouse is a curious little creature that makes a very interesting companion and a great pet. Mice are small, inexpensive, and very easy to care for. They are very clean animals that continually groom themselves by licking and combing their fur. Mice are nocturnal and will spend most of the day sleeping. At dusk, dawn, and throughout the night, mice are very active. A healthy and awake mouse is always on the go and will rarely sit still for more than a minute to eat, groom, or for a pet.

Domesticated mice are much more docile than their wild counterparts. If handled often and gently, mice generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. Mice have a life span of 1 to 3 years if well taken care of, and are a great first pet for children. However, mice should be kept away from the other pets of the house (dogs, cats, birds). They should also be kept away from other rodents such as rats, because rats are their natural predators.

Mice are very sociable creatures and like to have company. One mouse can do fine as a pet, but they very much appreciate having friends of their own kind. Female mice usually get along very well with other females. Do not get males together unless they grew up together (part of the same litter or family) because they will tend to fight, and especially if females are present. Therefore, it is best to keep mice of the same gender, preferably females. There are no marked gender-related differences in size, fur texture, or personalities with mice. Male mice do give off much more odor than female mice.

Rats

Like mice, rats are also thought to have originally come from Asia or Central Asia. When they were introduced to Europe in the Middle Ages, unfortunately they were most well known historically for contributing to the bubonic plague there. At about the same time, albino mutants made their appearance in wild populations, which is a common occurrence in the case of wild mammals. Interestingly – and in contrast to white mice who often ended up in laboratories – these white rats were considered highly attractive and distinctive, and thus were captured and tamed by humans. Therefore, albinos were most likely the first domesticated rats to be kept as pets. Referred to historically as being “wild” and “savage”, the wild rat has over the centuries through selective breeding evolved into the gentle and trusting pet rat some of us share our homes with today.

Like mice, rats are also very social animals, so it is highly recommended that you get pairs or trios. Females are smaller and considerably more active than males and their fur is softer. On the other hand, males are normally happier sitting on your lap and having you scratch their head. Rats are more communal and, in contrast to mice, several males and females may be kept together. Aggression between rats is generally much more infrequent than in mice. However, it is also okay to have only one rat as long as it is given a lot of attention.

Although bigger than mice, rats are also relatively inexpensive pets and are very easy to care for. They are docile and gentle by nature as well, and generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. Rats, like mice, are great companions for children. However they should be kept away from other household pets unless they are well acquainted with each other. Sometimes rats can become good friends with dogs or cats. Never house rats with other rodents though, such as mice, hamsters, or gerbils, because they will usually attack them. The average lifespan of a pet rat is between 2 and 3 years.

Getting Acquainted With Your Rat or Mouse

As mentioned earlier, domesticated mice and rats are much more docile and gentle than their wild counterparts. If handled often and gently, they generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. The best way to pick them up is to grab the middle of their tail gently and then place them in the palm of your other hand. If they are very familiar with you, you can pick them up directly. Unlike mice, rats should not be picked up by the tail. The best way to pick up a pet rat is to place one hand over the back, just behind the head, gently grasp it around the ribcage and lift it upward. The rat can then be gently cradled against the your body, without much restraint necessary.

When you first bring your mouse or rat home, give it 2 to 3 days to get comfortable in its new surroundings (cage or aquarium usually) without bothering it at all. Once it is comfortable in its new home, get it comfortable with you. The easiest and quickest way to do this is by letting them run around in some of your clothes so that they get used to your scent, or let them run around on you! Do this for at least 10 minutes a day, and by the end of 3 weeks, most mice and rats will be comfortable enough with you that they will immediately step onto your presented hand. Upon their first interactions with humans, most mice or rats will be quite cautious and nervous. This is quite understandable, as everything seems big and dangerous to them, so be patient with them.

Mice and rats can also be eventually taught simple tricks, such as taking food from your fingers once they are comfortable with you and even retrieving treats from your pocket. With lots of patience, they can learn more sophisticated things such as climbing ladders, walking “tightropes”, racing, and traveling through mazes. Some rats and mice have even been known to be taught to respond to a name and come when they are called, and riding around on your shoulder. Of course, one of the best ways to train them to do tricks is to reward them with a treat every time they do something right.

You and your mouse or rat are now ready to travel, explore, and have lots of fun together. Everything still seems big and dangerous to your pet rodent, but it now trusts you for its protection.

Ich is one of the most common parasitic diseases that fish get. In fact, the ich organism itself is almost always present in an aquarium, and even on the fish too. Normally, healthy fish in a healthy aquarium would not be affected by low levels of ich and thus would probably not develop the disease. This is because healthy fish usually have very good antibodies, plus a strong slime coating that helps protect them against disease. However, if a fish gets stressed out enough, it will become more vulnerable to ich. The fish’s immunity will break down enough such that the ich parasite is able to burrow into the fish’s skin to feed and start doing damage. Then your fish has the disease, ich.

You can usually tell when fish have this disease, because the fish will have several small white spots on its body and fins. The spots will be a little smaller than grains of salt. Now, the parasite itself is microscopic and is not visible. The white spots you see on the fish are not the parasite, this is the fish skin’s reaction to the parasite, much like mosquito bites or bee stings in humans. You may also see the fish scratching and rubbing itself against rocks and gravel in order to sooth its irritation.

If allowed to progress untreated into advanced stages, ich may cause the fish to become lethargic and even die. In advanced stages of ich, the fish’s skin will show redness or even bloody streaks. Even if the fish does not die, the tissue damage caused is a major threat to fish health and can be the site for secondary bacterial or fungal infections. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, it can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet or habitat. The disease is also contagious and spreads very easily. Thus, ich must be treated if you want to maintain the health of your aquarium and all the fish in it.

Fish – especially overstressed fish – can get ich easily and can even die from it, but fortunately as you can see ich it is very easy to spot. And it is also quite easy to treat and cure. Medications for ich are readily available at your local pet store and are highly effective. Malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride are some of the most effective chemical medications for treating ich. They are available under several brand names such as Maracide and Quick Cure.

To understand the treatment, it is important to note that the ich parasite lives out its life in two stages: the cyst or single-celled microscopic stage, and then the cell division or free-swimming stage. The ich parasite is in its cyst stage when it first burrows into the fish’s skin to feed. In 3 to 5 days it will become mature, release itself from the fish, and fall to the bottom of the tank where it will reproduce by cell division. Just one of these parasites can produce anywhere from 100 to 1000 other parasites, who will then spread throughout the aquarium looking for new hosts to infect, or in this case new fish to dine on! These parasites are now considered in the free-swimming stage.

It is only during the second stage, the free-swimming stage, that you can kill the parasites with medication because they are in the water outside of the protection of the fish’s body. Now is your chance to kill them before they all burrow to safety inside your fish again! So, the following are the specific steps to follow in order to treat and cure an ich outbreak:

1. Make a one third water change to make sure that the water quality is optimum. If you are not sure if it is good, bring a sample in to Pet World to get it tested.
2. If you have tropical fish, remember that the best temperature for most tropical fish is around 78 degrees, although 76 to 80 degrees is still a good range.
3. Make sure that all filters are working well, with plenty of aeration and circulation. Remove the carbon from the filter before applying medication, as the carbon would remove the medication prematurely.
4. Add the proper dose of medication to the tank. Be careful not to get any on your clothes or on the aquarium lid or tank, as it is very staining.
5. Keep the proper dose in the aquarium for at least 10 days, and it will take this long to kill any new parasites.
6. Monitor the water conditions to make sure they stay at optimum, so the fish can build up their resistance and help fight the parasite.
7. When it has been 10 days, and you haven’t seen any parasites or the white spots associated with them on the fish for at least 4 days, make another one third water change, and add fresh carbon back into the aquarium filter.

Of course, the best cure for ich is prevention. Try to keep the fish as stress-free as possible. Maintaining high water quality, avoiding temperature and pH fluctuations, and providing a robust diet are the best preventatives for ich and many other fish diseases. For your information, here is a specific list of some of the things that can cause stress in a fish:

• Poor water quality, such as water with ammonia or nitrite.
• A rapid change in temperature, usually a drop, or water that is too cold. For tropical fish, going from the ideal of about 78 degrees to about 70 degrees or less could cause ich.
• A rapid change in the pH of the water. pH is a measure of the alkaline or acid content of the water. The water at Pet World is usually kept between 7.6 and 7.8 in pH. If the fish are transferred into water that is either too high, 8.8 to 9, or too low, 6.8 or lower, then this may be enough stress to cause ich.
• Sometimes, just the trip home in the car can cause the temperature to rise or fall to an 8 or 10 degree difference, and this can cause ich. And if they are kept in the bag too long, such as more than 2 hours, it can cause a build-up of ammonia depending on the fish size, and this can be very stressful.
• Sometimes an aggressive fish chasing or harassing another fish can be enough stress to cause a fish to come down with ich. This is why you should make sure the fish in your community aquarium are as relatively compatible in size and/or aggressiveness as possible.
• Poor or inadequate diet.

When a cat approaches a person while holding its tail straight up like a pole, it is a sign of friendly trust. When a cat flicks its upright tail at you while standing or walking, it is also meant to convey friendliness and greetings. In another variation, the tail is up but undulating (wavelike movement), and this possibly suggests that the cat has mildly conflicting emotions towards you or something in the environment.

When a kitten or cat rubs its head on a person, it is called bunting. The cat deposits a small amount of pheromone (a harmless chemical secreted by some animals) from scent glands just in front of the ears. Sharing this communicates, “We’re part of the same family, and I want to be close to you.” A cat may also bump you with the front part of its head, this is known as head bonks, and it is also a friendly and affectionate gesture. However, despite the common misconception, cats are not really showing great love when they rub against you with the back of their head and the rest of their body. It´s just cat instinct to mark you with their scent – they are actually claiming you as their territory.

Perhaps the highest compliment a feline can pay to a human is to flop. A cat flopping over on its side is demonstrating a very level of high bonding and trust with its human companion because it exposing its soft and vulnerable underbelly. However, a cat completely on its back and exposing its entire underside is not being submissive, but is preparing for battle. This is because by completely rolling onto its back, the cat can then make full use of its natural weapons by exposing its claws on all four feet as well as its teeth. This is a cat’s ultimate defensive-aggressive posture and is sometimes seen in very engaged catfights.

You may have seen a cat or kitten play by crouching or flattening itself to the floor, twitching its tail, walking very slowly forward, and then suddenly pouncing onto a cat toy or other object it has been watching for a while. These games prepare a kitten to hunt for a living, while a grown cat will play these games to practice its hunting skills. Indeed, cats are naturally skillful hunters. In the wild, the goal is a sudden attack from above and behind, landing with a killing bite on the back of the prey animal’s neck. Thus, at home you will see that kittens and cats are both very easily induced to play hunting games, and kittens especially may spend many hours playing these games.

Felines in the wild will also often play with their live, captured prey by batting it around with their paws for a while, in order to try to learn the escape moves of their prey. At home, you will often see domestic kittens and cats exhibiting the same behavior with a cat toy, or even with a piece of paper, which is of course quite harmless.

Cats love to scratch. They do this to stretch and exercise their muscles, keep healthy nails, unwind from stress, and for many other reasons. Now, scratched furniture does not have to automatically occur when one keeps a cat. However, until taught otherwise, cats will scratch whatever feels good, whenever they feel like it. Provide at least one scratching post for each cat or kitten you have. If you notice your cat or kitten scratching inappropriately, gently pick it up and redirect it to the closest post. You can also try applying catnip to the post and scratch it yourself with your nails to demonstrate.

Cats also like heights and climbing. You can provide a tall cat tree to give the cat an alternative place to jump, climb, and play if you would like them to stay off bookshelves and other furniture. It is also a good idea to have plenty of cat toys available, and redirect your kitten or cat to play with those toys. The kitten that has good toys to play and exercise with, and that receives praise for proper play and behavior, will more likely grow into an adult cat that plays and behaves properly.

A cat is most likely angry or afraid if it displays flattened ears, wide open eyes, a lashing tail or a straightened tail with bristled fur, and agitated meows that turn into growling, snarling, hissing or sometimes even spitting. This display is called fear-induced or defensive aggression. A severely angry or frightened cat needs to be left alone – give it some time to cool off and calm down. A cat that is terrified is not thinking clearly and may view any attempts to comfort it as a threat.

Never punish a kitten or cat for aggressive behavior! Cats do not learn from any of the kinds of punishment or rebuke that one might use with dogs or children. Instead of changing the misbehavior, the cat is more likely to become afraid of you permanently – severely damaging your relationship with your cat, and it will become even more aggressive in the future. The fear-induced or defensive aggression mentioned in the previous paragraph will be a cat’s natural reaction to punishment, especially physical punishment. Understanding your cat’s behaviors and providing it with good toys, treats, praise, and essential accessories such as a scratching post will help ensure a happy, healthy, and well-behaved cat.

There is also a more detailed article on the subject of cat scratching posts on the Pet World facts page which you may find useful. Click here to get to it.

Many cichlids have become valued and popular aquarium fish throughout the world. You may have seen them before or even own them but not know that they are cichlids. For example, oscars, discus fish and angelfish are types of cichlids.

The popularity of cichlids among aquarists is not surprising: many cichlids are easy to keep, there are so many kinds to choose from, and they are considered relatively smart and highly evolved fish. Hundreds of cichlid species are currently available for the aquarium and many are hardy enough to be kept and bred successfully without extremely large tanks or special equipment.

Below is a brief listing of some of the most popular and available aquarium cichlids…

South American and Central American cichlids:

• Angelfish
• Discus
• Convict cichlid
• Red devil
• Green terror
• Red terror
• Parrot cichlid
• Oscar

African cichlids:

• Lake Tanganyika cichlid
• Lake Malawi cichlid
• Lake Victoria cichlid
• Electric Yellow
• Red Zebra
• Tilapia

Indeed, cichlids come in a surprising diversity of shapes, sizes, colors, patterns, as well as personalities and behaviors for the aquarist to choose from. Central American cichlids are considered to be more dull in color with less patterns, but they have some of the most interesting behaviors and personalities. South American cichlids are pretty and but more docile in behavior. African cichlids are considered the prettiest and their vivid colors and patterns are ceaseless. Furthermore, you can choose from cichlids that have very rich and deep colors with sharp and distinct edges, or others that have more subtle colors with blurred markings and edges.

In terms of size, the smallest cichlids stay under 2 inches. At the larger end, cichlids can grow to 1 foot or even up to 1 meter long. Some cichlids are called “mouth-brooders” because they carry and raise their young in their mouths, and others are called “substrate-brooders” because they simply deposit their young on the substrate (gravel or other material) on the bottom of the tank. Some cichlids are tall-bodied (angelfish and discus) and compressed while others are long and rounded (most African cichlids). Cichlids do share a few common and interesting characteristics, such as having a single nostril and the presence of teeth in both the jaws and in the throat. Most cichlids are freshwater tropical fish.

Because they are such intelligent and highly-evolved fish, most cichlids are very active, curious in nature, and have fascinating behaviors and personalities. They will usually come right up to you as you come up to the tank and even try to interact with you. It is also this intelligence that makes some cichlids aggressive and territorial. This is especially true for the larger cichlids, Central American cichlids, or cichlids who are breeding and spawning. However, there are ways to make just about any cichlid get along well with others in a community aquarium

Large cichlids will get along with large fish of various species and generally should be kept with fish of the same temperament and size as themselves. There are a few large species that are peaceful and can get along in a normal community set up. Some cichlids, such as the angelfish, are actually considered some of the most peaceful and compatible fish in the world. The general rule of thumb for keeping most cichlids is to not keep them with fish that could fit into their mouths, as such small fish may be easily prone to aggression and possibly eaten.

Since there is such a variety of cichlid species, cichlids have a wide range of feeding habits. However, most cichlids have a good appetite and are easily fed. Most cichlids are omnivorous (eats plant and animal matter) but will usually eat more animal foods. These species should be offered a mixed diet of live foods (worms, crustaceans), flakes foods, and some fresh vegetable shreddings. A few cichlids such as the tilapia are strictly plant-eaters. Most cichlids are freshwater tropical fish, so the most ideal temperature range is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and a pH range from 6.0 to 8.0 is good. As with any fish, avoid sudden changes in pH and temperature.

Parakeets come from Australia where they live in large communal flocks. Being flock birds, parakeets are very social with each other and with people. They love attention and make wonderful pets. Most parakeets that you see in pet shops are bred in the United States. There are about 120 species with many sub-species. You can find parakeets in different shades of blue, green, yellow, white, red, and many other colors. Some species also have pretty plumes on top of their heads. Two of the most popular parakeet species are quaker parrots and ringneck parrots.

Colorful, friendly, sociable, intelligent, easy to tame, easy to care for, and relatively inexpensive, it is not surprising that the parakeet is one of the most popular and commonly kept birds. These birds are great for children, people who are just starting out with birds, and just about everyone else. Many experienced bird owners like keeping these birds as well, due to the parakeet’s manageable size, gentleness, captivating personality, and non-destructive behavior.

Parakeets are fairly intelligent birds that are relatively good at learning to talk and do tricks. They will learn to step up on your finger and other simple tricks, and almost all parakeets can learn to mimic a few words. In fact, the male parakeet has the capacity to learn over 200 words although their speech may be garbled. Parakeets are also full of energy and are a lot of fun to watch. Parakeets will stay very busy climbing, flying from perch to perch, chewing on toys and anything else they can reach, and performing other fun antics.

If you want your parakeet to really bond with you and become a close friend, get just one of them. It will bond more to you that way. If you get two or more parakeets in the same cage, the birds will bond more to each other. If you are planning on having one bird, you should provide plenty of toys such as rings, balls, swings, and bells. In addition to this, you should fulfill its need for companionship by spending some time with it each day.

Parakeets also love mirrors and other reflective objects. It is especially good to have a mirror in the cage if you have just one bird. They are very social creatures and will not be as lonely if there is another bird as a companion, or the reflection of themselves to admire. It is a good idea to get some toys even if you have more than one parakeet, as parakeets love to play. Parakeets like chew toys too. Chew toys made out of wood are good. Just make sure that it is a safe kind of wood for them to chew. It is best to get your wood chews at a good pet shop.

A parakeet is one of the easiest birds to take care of, and they can usually live ten to fifteen years if given good care. All you need is a medium sized cage, a good vitamin enriched food, millet or millet sprays, food and water dishes, a few toys, and a cuttle bone. Get a crushed cob litter or something similar for putting on the bottom of the cage, and change this lining at least once a week. Clean and change the water and food bowls daily to avoid the growth of bacteria.

Keeping your parakeet’s food and water fresh, as well as replenished, is very important. A bird can starve in a short amount of time if it runs out of food. A cuttlebone containing grit will provide a parakeet with the calcium it needs, aid in digestion, and keep the bird’s beak trim and from becoming too long. Parakeets also enjoy supplements of raw fruits and vegetables, but they should be offered in moderation. You may wish to clip your parakeet’s wings short so that it can’t fly. This will make it easier to tame the parakeet and will prevent it from flying out the door or into a pane of glass.

So if you have never had a bird, try a parakeet. They can be a lot of fun. If you already have a parakeet, or want to get one, just follow the basic care tips above, and you should have your parakeet for a good long while.

Of course, your cat still depends on you for its basic needs, such as proper food, shelter, annual check ups and vaccinations, and your time spent in building a bond with it as owner and companion. In addition, there are some other important care tips and regimens that will help keep your cat happy, in good health, and on its best behavior.

Grooming – Not Just For Good Looks

Make sure to groom your cat regularly, brushing or combing its fur using a pet rake or slicker brush. Regular grooming prevents and manages excess shedding, and helps to maintain a tight, shiny coat. This way your hand will not be filled with messy hair every time you pet your cat and this will also keep your house cleaner. Furthermore, grooming helps prevent hairballs as well as fleas and ticks, helps stimulate the skin, and most cats enjoy being brushed. Generally speaking, shorthaired cats should be groomed at least once a week, while longhaired cats can be groomed up to once a day.

When grooming, start at the head and work toward the tail, and be firm but gentle. Pulling or ripping through tangles and mats will cause pain, distrust, and anger. Brushing can, and should, be a pleasant experience for both owner and cat, so take your time. In addition to grooming as a way to prevent and manage excess shedding, many pet food companies also make products that you can add to your cat’s food to help prevent or stop excess shedding. Allen’s Shed-Stop and Lambert Kay Shed Relief are just two of these helpful products. Science Diet, Nutro and Iams also make similar products.

Litter Boxes and Getting Cats to Use Them

A few people have trained their cats to go potty outside of the home or even into the toilet, but those methods are harder to teach and can pose a hazard. Most people will just use a litter box. In most cases, a cat will usually instinctively start using the litter box that you provide for it, but some cats may need to be given a few hints or even tricks.

Initially, you may need to place the litter box in a public place where your cat can easily see it, or at the spot where it usually goes potty. Later, if you want to move the litter box – say into the bathroom or other low-traffic, low-visibility area – do it gradually: move the box 6-8 inches every few days and be sure that the cat still continues to use it in the new place. It also might help to place something over the old spot so it will not be tempted to return there.

You can choose from covered or open litter boxes. If using a covered box, make sure your cat can get in and out easily or it may decline to use it. There are a variety of materials you can buy for litter filling. Cats use soil in the wild and you can try digging up some in your backyard for use. Most people buy their litter material. You can choose from clay, sand, chunky pellets, silica gel and even environmentally friendly litter material.

Here are some other tips for using litter boxes

• Change litter box contents regularly (that is, clean it out) to keep the cat interested in it. Cats like clean places to do their business. Try to remove soiled litter daily. This will help keep your home odor-free and ensure your cat’s use of the litter box.
• Depending on the buildup of soiled litter and odors, you should completely clean out (empty) the box and replenish it with fresh litter every so often. When changing the litter, you should wash the box with warm, soapy water (not harsh cleaning chemicals), and then rinse it thoroughly before refilling it with litter.
• Each cat should have its own litter box. If you have a two-story home you may need to keep one litter box on each floor to ensure your cat uses the litter boxes consistently.
• The litter box should be roomy enough for your cat to turn around in it.
• Do not put your cat’s litter box next to its food bowl or bed. Because cleanliness is so important to them, cats do not like to eliminate where they eat or sleep.

Food and Feeding

Some cats may prefer milk or other liquids, but water is always the best drink for them. Cats will drink more water and enjoy it more if is kept very fresh. For food, there are many cat foods on the market. As you might expect, most commercial cat foods are already made to be relatively nutritionally balanced. You can read and compare labels to pick the ones that are most fortified with vitamins and minerals, or those that include anti-oxidants for extra protection against diseases.

Indeed, feeding your cat a good cat food will help avoid adult diseases like obesity, diabetes as well as organ damage when they are older. There are also specially designed cat foods for helping to prevent or even curing certain cat diseases and disorders, including the prevention of excess shedding mentioned earlier in the Grooming section. Another article in the Pet World Fact of the Week archives talks all about these and other types of pet foods, click here to see it.

Some cats control their intake well while others eat anything in sight. To avoid overfeeding your cat (which can lead to obesity and other health problems), it is best to provide food at mealtimes only rather than having a food bowl filled with food available at all times. This way you can easily monitor intake and food will not become stale. Avoid table scraps as well even though it is tempting!

There are plenty of dry or canned cat foods available for your cat. Dry foods take up less space, are easier to serve, will remain fresh and appetizing in the open for longer periods of time, may even help keep the cat’s teeth healthier and cleaner, and are available in a variety of flavors and textures. Canned cat foods usually contain a higher portion of meat and are generally more delicious and savory for cats, but that is about where the advantages end.

Fun and Activities

Cats are very independent and active creatures in the wild, where they thrive and keep busy with the freedom to hunt, mark, protect and defend, and to interact with others of the same species. Not surprisingly, indoor life can sometimes be a little tedious for cats, and this is what usually leads to things like excessive scratching, hiding, and other behavioral “problems”. While a cat for your cat is the optimal solution (they will amuse themselves together for hours at a time and take the heat for entertainment off you), a collection of fun toys and a few minutes per day of your time and energy will go a long way toward meeting your cat’s physical as well as emotional/psychological needs and thus providing an outlet for what may otherwise become misdirected behavior or “bad habits.”

Climbing furniture such as cat trees are great for satisfying curiosity and providing excellent exercise for cats. Toys especially for chase or hunt games and activities (can be anything from a simple ball to a laser mouse toy) provide what is called “predatory play” for cats and satisfies that urge. A ball on a string or hanging from the end of a pole make a great toy for social and interactive play. There are also food puzzles such as buster cubes (plastic cubes with various compartments for food that falls out as the cat bats it) that will provide feeding as well as exercise in one package. You can also make a homemade one, such as a paper cup with the opening taped over, and drill one or more holes in cup bottom or side so the cat can play some games with it to get food out continuously.

Cat Safety and Cat-Proofing

Cats and especially kittens, are very curious and independent by nature, and although you can not really discourage them from it, you can be prepared for it to prevent accidents and tragedies. Make it easy for your family and your cat by doing a little cat-proofing around the home:

1. Store all poisonous or dangerous materials in a tightly closed cabinet.
2. Keep toilet lids down. Your cat or kitten could fall in.
3. Store plastic bags in a drawer where your cat can not get to them. They can pose a threat of choking and suffocation.
4. Keep household items like string, sewing supplies, tacks, rubber bands, twist-ties, and other small parts away from your cat or kitten as they can be easily swallowed. Regular vacuuming will help with this.
5. Electrical cords should either be secured to the walls or wound up and bound so cat has less risk of getting shocked.
6. Store chocolates and other delicious (but bad for cats) human treats in closed containers and not openly displayed.
7. Lock up stuff like opened cleaning ingredients and other hazardous chemicals, or at least place them in securely closed cupboards.
8. Keep the dryer closed at all times – you may have heard about such nightmares in movies or on the news before.
9. Honk your car’s horn before starting up – cats that are let out in the garage may hide under cars and even under car hoods
10. Some plants, like ivy and poinsettia, are toxic when chewed on by cats. Be sure to check with your veterinarian or the plant nursery before bringing any plant into the house. Alternatively, you can use special cat repellents that will not hurt the plant but whose horrible taste will repel any cat. You can also get cat grass and most other grass seedlings for your cat to enjoy instead.
11. Make sure to have your cat start wearing a collar if it is not already, especially if you let your cat outdoors. The collar should have an identification tag with your phone number at minimum, and it should fit snug but not tight – you should be able to stick a finger in comfortably. And when you let your cat out it is best to keep your eyes open since they are susceptible to fights with other animals and traffic accidents.

Crate training and potty training are two basic and important skills for any dog or puppy to learn and master. Most puppies can be taught these two skills at just about any age over 12 weeks, but they will be more receptive and will learn faster when they are under 1 year of age.

Crate Training – Acquainting Your Puppy with Its New Home

Starting at early puppyhood, train your puppy to sleep, rest, and be comfortable in its “home” (crate). Every puppy needs to learn the skill of resting calmly in a crate. This skill will be needed at the veterinary hospital, for traveling, and for restricted activity due to illness. It is also a lifesaver for many young dogs during their chewing stages – your puppy will more likely be comfortably resting in its crate instead of causing messes or trouble all over the house. Everyone in the household can sleep better with a crate-trained puppy.

Finally crate training is an effective tool for helping with housebreaking or potty training. The basic principle is that puppies will avoid soiling in their immediate sleeping/living area, that is, their crate or “den.” The first couple of tries you might have some accidents, but do not be discouraged. By following the steps below, you can show your puppy how to train itself to seek security and comfort inside its little dog home. The crate should be a place of security and comfort to it like the den is for most canine animals in the wild.

Step 1: Encourage your puppy to go into its home on its own. If necessary, toss a treat into the crate. Do not force it to go in. Your puppy may quickly back out or be shy, but that is normal. Be patient and give it some time. For now, do not close the door on your puppy, but let it go in and explore without too much anxiety and worry. Of course, feel free to give praise and/or a treat when the puppy goes in.

Step 2: Once your puppy is happy and unafraid of its new home, simply restrain it at the crate door with your hand. Make your puppy stay in its home for a few minutes at first, then gradually increase the time and be sure to praise it if it behaves well.

Step 3: Once your puppy is comfortable with this – usually after a few hours or a few days of short training sessions – simply restrain it by closing the crate door gently but firmly on it, again praising it lavishly. However, try not to be sneaky about shutting the door, this can cause the puppy to distrust both you and the crate. Slowly you can get further and further away from your puppy, always praising its accepting behavior. Eventually, your puppy will feel secure in its home with the door closed, and will sit quietly and sleep in there.

Make the crate a pleasant place to rest. A few safe chew toys and a treat can help the puppy relax and drift off to dreamland. Provide soft, washable bedding in its new home, so that your puppy is comfortable and warm. Keep the bedding and crate clean and free of fleas. It is also important that the crate is the right size for your dog, if too big your puppy may soil in it. The crate should be big enough for you puppy to stand up, turn around and lie down with water bowl. Do not put housebreaking pads or newspaper in your puppy’s home. We are trying to take advantage of the its natural instinct not to go in its home but in the back yard or other open place.

Potty Training – Directing Your Puppy

Little puppies need to “go” about every 2-4 hours. The following steps show how to train your puppy to get used to a regular daily schedule for elimination. A set schedule between the two of you allows your puppy plenty of opportunities throughout the day to “go,” while ensuring that you do not have to take it out to “go” all day and night at unpredictable intervals and odd hours.

Step 1: Plan a schedule, such as after feeding, before bedtime, and first thing in the morning to take your puppy out to “go.”

Step 2: Teach your puppy the route to the door to wherever you would like it to do its elimination, such as the back yard. When you two get to the door, praise it at the door.

Step 3: At each scheduled time of the day, go with the puppy out the door and out to the back yard or wherever you have chosen. If there is a specific spot in the backyard or other place that you want it to use for elimination, lead your puppy to that spot and let it “go” there. Also praise it as it eliminates. Very quickly, you are teaching your puppy an elimination schedule that will stay with it for the rest of its life.

When your puppy gets to 4-6 months old, you can gradually leave it in its home for longer periods of time because it can hold the urge to eliminate longer. In fact, at 6 weeks, a puppy can hold its bladder about 4 hours, by 8 weeks – 5 hours, by 12 weeks – 6 hours, and by 5 or 6 months a puppy should be able to hold it for an 8 hour work day. Soon, your puppy can be in its home all day, if necessary, until you arrive to let it out.

However, take care not to abuse the use of the crate. When you are at home and awake, supervise the puppy in person rather than using the crate. Puppies need exercise, mental stimulation and guidance from you in order to grow up healthy and happy. Too much crate time is not humane. Puppies sleep 14 hours a day or so. If the crate time is scheduled so the puppy can use it for sleep and rest, that’s ideal.

Finally, good eating habits and food choice will help housebreak your dog or puppy. Although commonly done, you should avoid feeding table scraps to your puppy. Most human food can mess up your puppy’s stools (as well as possibly cause other health problems) and therefore interfere with your housebreaking plans. Good quality, dry dog food is your and your dog’s biggest ally. The average puppy or dog will need about 2 to 3 feedings a day, and be given water 3 or 4 times a day. You should make the last watering and feeding as early as possible – no later than a couple of hours before bedtime (around 5 or 6) – to help ensure that the puppy or dog eliminates around bedtime and will not have to go overnight.

Some of the Do’s and Don’ts of Crate and Potty Training

Do…get your puppy used to its new home gradually.

Do…supervise your puppy anytime it is roaming free in your home. Supervision is what allows you to direct behavior. Chewing, elimination, barking and all other behaviors are all dependent on your direction. If allowed to be unsupervised, your puppy will begin to direct its own behavior and schedule.

Do…remove collars, tags and leads from your puppy before placing it in your home to prevent possible entanglement.

Do…remember to give your puppy food and water if you have to leave it for awhile.

Don’t…try to housebreak your puppy before 12 weeks old, they lack the muscle control at that age.

Don’t…leave your puppy in its home all day.

Don’t…let your new puppy roam through your house unsupervised. Keep an eye on it so that when it sniffs and circles – an indication it is about to “go” – you can quickly and gently guide it to the door and outside.

Don’t…punish your puppy by putting or forcing him into its home. Your puppy’s home should not be associated with punishment or anything negative.

As you will see, the most common and effective method for teaching the basic commands are by using praise and treats as motivation. The basic idea is to put some treats in your pocket or in your hand, and then reward the puppy every time it correctly performs the new behavior you are trying to teach it. Follow the guidelines below to effectively and quickly teach your dog or puppy the basic commands.

Teaching Sit:

1. Take a treat in your hand, and let the puppy sniff it by keeping it in front of or just above the puppy’s nose.
2. Slowly move the treat up and back over the puppy’s head. If the puppy lifts its front legs then you are holding the food treat too high. Usually the puppy will be interested in the treat and will want to follow the treat, and it will have to sit to do so. If it does not begin to sit now, start over.
3. As the puppy sits, say “Sit”, then give the puppy the treat, followed by some gentle stroking and a warm, enthusiastic “Good dog!”

Many repetitions will be necessary for the puppy to learn the association between sitting when told to and a good feeling. This is a important command to master though because as you will see later, it is the first step in teaching most other commands. You may wish to get the family involved to help with the training. Sit in a circle with the puppy in the middle, then have each family member call the puppy over and ask it to sit. Reward with treats if the puppy behaves well. This will also get the puppy socialized with the entire family!

Gradually, as the puppy understands what you want it to do, only give treats intermittently until it is weaned off the treats at least for the sit command. An alternative method you can try out is to hold the treat in front of the dog’s nose with one hand while placing your other hand on its shoulder blades. As your treat hand moves over its head your left had will slide down its back, gently increasing pressure until it sits. But do not use too much force!

Teaching Stay:

1. Have the puppy sit.
2. Move back six inches (equivalent to taking about a step back), and say “stay” as you hold out your right hand with palm facing your puppy. If the puppy does not stay and gets up, start over back at step 1. If the puppy stays successfully for at least 1-2 seconds, step forward and reward your puppy. Make sure that the puppy does not stand up or move as you present the reward because then you will have rewarded it for “getting up”.
3. Once your puppy stays at six inches or one step away, repeat the first two steps but step back further – another six inches or another step, then say “stay” and hold for three or four seconds. If the puppy stays, walk back to the puppy and reward or praise it. Keeping repeating, increasing the distance by a step or two and the duration of stay by a couple of seconds each time.

You should gradually be able to get to a point when the puppy can stay for a minute or more with you standing at least 10 feet away. Be patient. It can take a week or more of daily training to get a puppy to sit and stay for 1-2 minutes. Over a few months it should be possible to increase the stay to 15 minutes or more, and to be able to leave the room and return without the puppy rising from its stay. Although stay is one of the more difficult commands to master, it is also a crucial and very useful command.

You may have an easier time if the puppy has already mastered the sit command. That is, it sits down each and every time it is asked, without the need for food inducements. An alternative method you can try for teaching stay is to start by placing the puppy on an elevated surface like a chair or a step. If your puppy is very feisty and active, you may wish to put a long leash on it so that it does not run away.

Teaching Down:

1. Have the puppy sit.
2. Hold the treat in front of the puppy’s nose and let the puppy sniff at the treat to rouse its interest.
3. Slowly lower the treat down between the puppy’s front paws and say “Down”. Usually the puppy will follow the treat down to the floor and get to a lying position. If the puppy lies down give it the treat and of course add “good dog.”
4. If the puppy does not lie all the way down, slowly push the treat backwards further between the paws. If pushing the treat backwards under the puppy still does not work, you can also try slowly pulling the treat forward. Move the treat forward along the ground so the puppy has to inch forward into a down position. Again, whenever the puppy does lie down, give it the treat, pet it, and say “Good dog” or some other praise. Whenever the puppy stands up, start over.

Once the puppy understands the down command, make sure that you vary the starting position. You should try to get your puppy to lie down from both a sit and when standing up.

Teaching Stand:

1. Have the puppy sit.
2. Take the food treat palm facing up and move it forward and away from the puppy as you say “Stand”.
3. Your puppy should follow its nose and stand up. Do not pull your hand so far away that the puppy follows you, but just until it stands up. As it does, give it the treat and praise it.

Teaching Come:

1. From a few feet away, say your puppy’s name in a happy voice. As soon as your puppy looks at you, either squat down or run backwards and say “Come.” Test both methods to see which elicits the quickest response from your puppy.
2. As soon as your puppy starts coming toward you, say “Good dog!” If you are backing up, squat down before your puppy gets to you, keeping your upper torso straight because dogs feel insecure or intimidated if a person bends over them.
3. Keep the hand with the treat close to your body so that as the puppy approaches you, it does not try to grab the treat from your outstretched hand and run away with it.
4. As you offer the puppy the treat from one hand, gently grasp the puppy’s collar with the other hand. Not only will you be working on the come command, but you will also be associating taking hold of the collar with something positive so that your puppy will be more willing to have its collar held as it grows up.

Finally, remember to try to do all training in a low distraction environment. This will help the puppy to concentrate. Once your puppy learns these basic commands, you will appreciate your puppy more and it will be easier to teach it other things in the future.

Below, we are going to show you that there are efficient methods for successfully training cats and kittens just as there are for dogs. In addition to behaving well, a trained cat is more attuned to its owner, and the bond between cat and owner is usually enhanced.

The first thing to know is that cats and dogs have some fundamental differences when it comes to training. Basically, cats do not learn from any of the kinds of punishment or rebuke that one might see used with dogs. That is, cats often do not respond to commands unless they want to. The idea is to train or condition your cat to perform certain desired behaviors rather than to punish its unwanted behavior. For example, you cannot train a cat to stop meowing by punishing it. Instead, you would reward the silence that follows. Specifically, you would wait until the noise has stopped for at least three seconds, and then supply the cat some valued reward such as praise and/or a treat.

The ultimate goal of course is to wean your cat off of treats for rewarding and reinforcing good behavior, or it would become very fat and you would be spending a lot of money on treats! Fortunately, this process is natural and will not be difficult. Your cat will quickly learn to associate your behavior and certain sounds with good things. For example, the sound of you flipping open the top of a cat food can or shaking a container of treats will tell it that good food is coming up for it, and your cat will come running to you. For cat training, this means you can reinforce any specific behavior with a food reward, and after a while just using the sound produced prior to the actual food as the sole reward.

Of course, you would not want to have to create the sound of opening a can of food all the time! This is why most successful cat trainers use something like a small plastic or metal clicker – followed with the giving of an actual treat during initial training – to mark and reward the successful accomplishment of a behavior. This is called clicker training. It does not take long for cats to realize that the clicking signals something good, just like the noise made by a can opener.

The very first thing to accomplish is to give a click and a reward for nothing, to just associate a click with a treat. Do this a few times. Soon you should have your cat’s undivided attention. After some repetitions, you will notice that your cat reacts to hearing the click with some anticipatory behavior, as it has learned to associate the sound with the reward.

After the initial association above is learned, you can begin formal training. Begin to click and treat only when, and after, the cat has engaged in some complete behavior that you want, such as sitting. Or, you can try clicking and rewarding a behavior that you are trying to encourage. For example, click and reward your cat for taking a pace or two toward you when you are trying to teach "come." It is also a good idea to use your cat’s name along with the command you are trying to teach, such as "Garfield – come here," and if it obeys then verbally praise it with something like "good boy" in addition to the click and treat.

Below are the detailed methods for teaching a few of the most common commands:

Teaching Sit

Start by placing your cat on a table. Hold the food reward over its head. Say its name and give the command "Sit." Move the food back over your cat’s head. As its head follows the food your cat will naturally sit down in most cases. As soon as it sits, make the clicking sound and say "Sit" again to reinforce the command name, then give it the food reward soon after. Should your cat not sit as you move the food over its head, lightly press down on its hindquarters or lower back with one hand while holding the food over its head with your other hand, and say "Sit."

Teaching Come

Stand by your cat’s feeding station and click. Once your cat comes to the feeding station, and to you, at the sound of the clicker, say "Come" and then hit the clicker again. Give it some food and praise it. Continue this process but from other locations around your house. Eventually your cat should come to you reliably when you say “Come” without you having to click at it, though there should always be something worth coming for to reward it at least initially.

Another way to teach the come command is by sitting on the floor or crouching down and calling for your cat. Look enthusiastic and pat or scratch the floor in front of you, saying something like "Garfield, come here, good boy!" If Garfield comes, click and reward, and move to another location. Repeat this exercise many times. You can even incorporate a few other people, making the training process more fun while teaching the cat to obey several different people. Each one calls the cat in turn and whenever it responds successfully, have the person click and treat the cat.

Teaching Stay

Teaching your cat to stay is a bit more complex. Place the food down on the floor about ten feet away from it. As it approaches, put your hand out to stop it and say "Stay." If it stops, make the clicking sound and reward it. If it keeps on coming, hold your hand out again and repeat the command "Stay." Reward only when it finally stops, and repeat the process until your cat knows that "Stay" means it should freeze in its tracks.

A great alternative method is to treat stay as an extended sit. Once your cat has learned to sit or lie down in order to make you click, you can start shaping the behavior toward longer durations of these behaviors. To do this, do not click right away but rather delay the click and reward by a few seconds. From there, the length of delay can be increased to as long as you think is appropriate. The cat will learn that if it sits or lies down for long enough a click and treat will eventually come.

Here are some more general tips for successful and efficient clicker training:

• Choose a quiet location where you can be alone and undisturbed with your cat. Turn off the television, stereo, etc.
• Have a supply of delicious food treats in your hand or in a bowl, but out of your cat’s reach. The treats should be diced up into pea-sized chunks.
• Hold the clicker in your hand or have it attached to your belt so it is quickly at hand.
• Teach only one command at a time and repeat the lesson daily until your cat responds reliably. Once it has learned the first command, move on to the next one.
• If your cat appears frustrated or impatient, quit and perform the lesson at another time. Keep each session about ten or fifteen minutes long at maximum. Teaching one command may take anything from one or two days to about a week, so be patient.

In conclusion, when the cat learns that if it performs a behavior you approve of then it can make you click (and that means food), it will try all kinds of ways to make you happy. All you have to do is decide what you want to reward and promote, and what you prefer to ignore. And rewards do not have to be used forever, remember the concept of delaying the reward by a few seconds to longer. Once a behavior is occurring with the appropriate hand movements, clicking, and praise, simply stop using the actual reward (food).

Try to start training your cat or kitten at as young an age as possible. Make the training sessions fun for your cat and for you and make them something your cat wants to participate in. Soon your cat will begin to associate the food reward with the command and you will no longer even have to use the clicker to make it sit – simply saying the command will be enough.