Many cichlids have become valued and popular aquarium fish throughout the world. You may have seen them before or even own them but not know that they are cichlids. For example, oscars, discus fish and angelfish are types of cichlids.

The popularity of cichlids among aquarists is not surprising: many cichlids are easy to keep, there are so many kinds to choose from, and they are considered relatively smart and highly evolved fish. Hundreds of cichlid species are currently available for the aquarium and many are hardy enough to be kept and bred successfully without extremely large tanks or special equipment.

Below is a brief listing of some of the most popular and available aquarium cichlids…

South American and Central American cichlids:

• Angelfish
• Discus
• Convict cichlid
• Red devil
• Green terror
• Red terror
• Parrot cichlid
• Oscar

African cichlids:

• Lake Tanganyika cichlid
• Lake Malawi cichlid
• Lake Victoria cichlid
• Electric Yellow
• Red Zebra
• Tilapia

Indeed, cichlids come in a surprising diversity of shapes, sizes, colors, patterns, as well as personalities and behaviors for the aquarist to choose from. Central American cichlids are considered to be more dull in color with less patterns, but they have some of the most interesting behaviors and personalities. South American cichlids are pretty and but more docile in behavior. African cichlids are considered the prettiest and their vivid colors and patterns are ceaseless. Furthermore, you can choose from cichlids that have very rich and deep colors with sharp and distinct edges, or others that have more subtle colors with blurred markings and edges.

In terms of size, the smallest cichlids stay under 2 inches. At the larger end, cichlids can grow to 1 foot or even up to 1 meter long. Some cichlids are called “mouth-brooders” because they carry and raise their young in their mouths, and others are called “substrate-brooders” because they simply deposit their young on the substrate (gravel or other material) on the bottom of the tank. Some cichlids are tall-bodied (angelfish and discus) and compressed while others are long and rounded (most African cichlids). Cichlids do share a few common and interesting characteristics, such as having a single nostril and the presence of teeth in both the jaws and in the throat. Most cichlids are freshwater tropical fish.

Because they are such intelligent and highly-evolved fish, most cichlids are very active, curious in nature, and have fascinating behaviors and personalities. They will usually come right up to you as you come up to the tank and even try to interact with you. It is also this intelligence that makes some cichlids aggressive and territorial. This is especially true for the larger cichlids, Central American cichlids, or cichlids who are breeding and spawning. However, there are ways to make just about any cichlid get along well with others in a community aquarium

Large cichlids will get along with large fish of various species and generally should be kept with fish of the same temperament and size as themselves. There are a few large species that are peaceful and can get along in a normal community set up. Some cichlids, such as the angelfish, are actually considered some of the most peaceful and compatible fish in the world. The general rule of thumb for keeping most cichlids is to not keep them with fish that could fit into their mouths, as such small fish may be easily prone to aggression and possibly eaten.

Since there is such a variety of cichlid species, cichlids have a wide range of feeding habits. However, most cichlids have a good appetite and are easily fed. Most cichlids are omnivorous (eats plant and animal matter) but will usually eat more animal foods. These species should be offered a mixed diet of live foods (worms, crustaceans), flakes foods, and some fresh vegetable shreddings. A few cichlids such as the tilapia are strictly plant-eaters. Most cichlids are freshwater tropical fish, so the most ideal temperature range is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and a pH range from 6.0 to 8.0 is good. As with any fish, avoid sudden changes in pH and temperature.

If your tank is large – bigger than 20 gallons – it can go longer between changes. If an aquarium is small – 20 gallons or less – you should change water more often. You may also need to change your water more often if you keep a lot of fish in your aquarium as it will get dirty quicker.

If the tank has just been set up, change 1/3 of the water once a week for the first 6 weeks if it is a smaller tank. For a larger tank, change 1/3 of the water once every two weeks for the first 6 weeks.

As the aquarium gets established, after about 6 weeks, you can go about a month between water changes. However, if the water gets very cloudy or if the fish look stressed, change 1/3 of the water right away. Do make sure never to change all of your water at once, and of course do not take down and empty your aquarium for cleaning.

You should not remove your fish or your gravel when changing the water. If your gravel is taken out and washed, all of the beneficial bacteria will die, causing great stress and risk of sickness in your fish.

So what tools do you need to change that water?

The answer is: one clean 5 gallon bucket (two if you have a large aquarium and thus have more than about 5 gallons of old dirty water to remove, or just use one very large bucket), some good water conditioner or dechlorinator (this is for removing chlorine and other impurities from the fresh faucet tap water that you will be getting to replace that 1/3 of the old aquarium water you will be removing), and a siphon gravel cleaner.

The siphon gravel cleaner is one of the best devices for cleaning aquariums or changing aquarium water because it removes the old water from your aquarium and the dirt out of the gravel in one step. This device will help make your water changes quick and easy, and it is available at your local pet store.

Now that you have gathered your three tools, here is exactly what to do with them to change your water (for your convenience, steps 1 through 6 have been illustrated for you in the figures at the bottom of this article):

1. Get your siphon gravel cleaner and buckets ready next to the aquarium (the water conditioner or dechlorinator will be used later). See Figure 1 below.
2. Place your siphon gravel cleaner into the aquarium with the tip up and put your thumb over the bottom end of the cleaner’s tube. See Figure 2 below.
3. Raise the tube out of the water and the water will fill up the tube. See Figure 3 below.
4. Push the tube back into the tank with tip up. See Figure 4 below.
5. With the tube full of old dirty water, now simply let your thumb off, and the old dirty water will start to flow from the tank into the bucket automatically by gravity. See Figure 5 below.
6. In the meantime, move the siphon gravel cleaner back and forth on the bottom of the tank just like a vacuum cleaner, and this will pull the dirt out of the gravel and siphon it with the old water out into your bucket. Pinch the tube to restrict flow. See Figure 6 below.
7. After about 1/3 of the old water has been removed from the tank, remove the siphon gravel cleaner from the tank, and go throw this bucket of old dirty water out.
8. Rinse the bucket out, put your water conditioner or dechlorinator in the bucket, and then put your bucket in the bathtub or a deep sink. Add fresh tap water to the water. Adjust the hot and cold water, using a thermometer, to get the temperature to about 78 degrees (between 76 and 80 degrees is usually good enough) for most tropical fish.
9. Wait about 15 minutes for the water conditioner or dechlorinator to do its work on that tap water, then pour the water in to your aquarium. Of course make sure you add enough new water to replace all of that 1/3 of the old dirty water you removed.

Figure 1 - Get your siphon gravel cleaner and buckets ready next to the aquarium.

Figure 2 - Place your siphon gravel cleaner into the aquarium with the tip up and put your thumb over the bottom end of the cleaner's tube.

Figure 3 - Raise the tube out of the water and the water will fill up the tube.

Figure 4 - Push the tube back into the tank with tip up.

Figure 5 - With the tube full of old dirty water, now simply let your thumb off, and the old dirty water will start to flow from the tank into the bucket automatically by gravity.

Figure 6 - In the meantime, move the siphon gravel cleaner back and forth on the bottom of the tank just like a vacuum cleaner, and this will pull the dirt out of the gravel and siphon it with the old water out into your bucket. Pinch the tube to restrict flow.

There are many shapes and sizes in outdoor ponds, and it will help you to know how many gallons your pond holds. To calculate the number of gallons in your pond, multiply length times width times average depth in feet, and this will give you cubic feet. Then take this and multiply times 7.5, which is the number of gallons in a cubic foot.

The sun is one of the main outdoor factors that will affect your pond, so you will want to try to locate your pond such that it is not totally in the sun all of the time. The sun can cause a lot of algae to grow. Over time your pond is likely to become dirty. This can be caused by fish and leaves, dust, insects and other dirt and debris falling into your pond. A good pump and filter will help to keep your pond clean.

Also it is a good idea not to overcrowd your pond with too many fish. In a 300 gallon pond, for example, about 12 4-6 inch fish would be about right. This doesn’t sound like much, but remember that all goldfish, and all koi will grow much larger. A goldfish can reach a foot in length, and koi can reach 2 feet in length. If all 12 fish were koi, and they all grew to full size, the pond would be very overcrowded.

Something else that helps is very careful feeding of your fish. Just feed a few pellets per fish. Fish do not need as much food as you think they do. They can also eat insects that fall into the pond.

Get a pump and filter that is sized correctly for your pond and fish. A waterfall, or a water fountain is also a good idea, as this adds oxygen to the water.

Now, if your pond should turn cloudy, check to see if it is a gray cloudy, or a green cloudy. Green cloudy water is very common in the summer in outdoor ponds. This green water is caused by green algae that is suspended in the water.

Tips to get rid of green water:

1. Have a very good pump and filter for your pond.
2. Do not overcrowd or overfeed your fish.
3. You may want to make a partial water change in your pond, if your pond is not very large. Siphon or scoop leaves and sediment off of the bottom as you do this.
4. Add a product called ALGAEFIX to your pond, this will kill the algae. According to the directions, you will add some once a week to keep it under control. You may end up with cloudy, polluted water after killing all of your algae, if you had quite a lot of algae. The dead algae can pollute. You will want to make a water change, and clean your filter often.
5. You can add a product called ACCU-CLEAR to your pond, and this may help clear up the water after killing the algae.
6. Have a lot of water lilies, and other pond plants. These plants will help shade your water from the sun, and plants also use up nitrates and other food that makes the algae grow.
7. You may want to add a product called WATER SHADE. This will tint your water blue. This will help shade the water from the effects of the sun.
8. You can also buy an ultraviolet sterilizer, that when hooked up inline with your water pump, will kill all of the algae that passes through it. These can be a little expensive, but they do work.

If your pond should happen to develop a cloudy gray color, this is different from algae.

This kind of cloudiness can be caused from overcrowding or overfeeding your fish. If this is the case, remove some fish, and cut back on the food. You may want to make a water change of about 1/3 to 1/2 if you can. Make sure that you use a dechlorinating conditioner when you fill it. Make sure that you have a good pump, filter, and either a waterfall, or fountain. Clean the filter often.

Barley Straw

Using barley straw is a simple and efficient method to keep ponds clear and clean all year long. Since the Middle Ages farmers have known of the benefits of straw and used it to keep ponds clear.

To best observe the benefits of barley straw it should be used continuously throughout the year with Clear Pond BSL (Bio Surge) Liquid and Dry Formula, which can also be used year-round. Barley straw treatment can be started at any time.

When barley straw is put into water, its cellular structure starts to break down, or decompose, aided by a mixture of water, light and oxygen. That is why barley works best when floating near the water surface. A microbial activity process drives this breakdown or decomposition. It is during this process that chemicals are released which inhibit the growth of algae.

When barley straw is blended with lavender stalks it tends to be more effective in keeping troubled ponds clear and clean (requires pumped circulating water). Each pad treats ponds up to 1/4 acre. Pads are 7” square each and treat from 700 to 1,200 gal. of water. Each pond pad is good for use for up to four months. Pads are in packs of three. Sizes are for ponds from 10 gallons to 1/4 acre.

Pond Pad Floater

The Pond Pad Floater has been developed to keep pond pads suspended near the top of the pond to maximize performance. When Pond Pads are used in deep ponds it is possible for them to sink into the depths where they may be less effective in controlling algae. The Pond Pad Floater will hold a pond pad just below the surface where it will work most effectively.

For more information:
Barley Pads 2 pack
Barley Pads Plus Lavender
Pond Pad Floater w/Weight

Water weighs about 8 lbs. per gallon. With the tank and gravel, figure about 10 lbs. per gallon. So, a 10 gallon tank will weigh about 100 lbs.

If you find something strong enough to hold your aquarium, you will want to make sure that it is also very flat. If the surface under the tank is warped – or not completely flat – you may get a pressure crack in the glass of your aquarium. This happens when the tank tries to bend to conform to an uneven surface and cracks.

A good way to check the surface is to set the tank up empty. Then, try to wobble the tank from corner to corner. If it does not wobble much, or less than 1/16 of an inch, then it is probably OK. If you see a gap that is more than 1/16 of an inch, you may want to shim it, or get something different to put your tank on. If you shim, use thin plastic that can’t be compressed.

It is always best to use an aquarium stand for tanks larger than 10 gallons. This is the safest thing for your aquarium.

Related products of benefit to your pet:
Fish Aquarium Stands

The three hardiest and most common schooling fish for the aquarium are barbs, danios, and tetras. Barbs and danios belong to the large Cyprinid family of freshwater tropical fish which also includes all koi, carp, goldfish, and minnows. Tetras belong to the smaller Characin family. Now, let us take a closer look at these fascinating schooling fish.

Tetras

Tetras come in a huge variety of colors and patterns, and two of the most popular ones are the Neon Tetra and the Cardinal Tetra. These two are quite attractive red and blue fish. The red line on the Cardinal runs from the head on back, while in the Neon it starts only in the belly region. These two tetras do need slightly more soft and acidic water, with a pH between 6 and 6.5.

There are also plenty of hardier tetras out there for beginners without special water, and they are often just as beautiful and exciting. These include the distinctive Black or Black Skirt Tetra, the brightly colored Glow Light Tetra, the radiant orange Jewel Tetra, the Flame Tetra, and the red-tailed Pristella Tetra. All of the tetras mentioned stay at a manageable maximum size of about two inches long or less. All tetras are best kept in groups of six or more of the same species.

Barbs

There are many kinds of barbs to choose from as well, with the most popular ones being Cherry Barbs and Tiger Barbs. Small and manageable (stays under two inches long), with a beautiful orange-red to cherry-red coloration, Cherry Barbs are terrific beginner fish that are peaceful, long-lived and school well. They are best kept in small schools of either three or four.

The Tiger Barb is a very beautiful and colorful barb that usually has four blue-black bands running across the body, with bright red-orange fins. The rest of the body is a brown-orange color and the back is almost like an olive green. The scales when viewed under the right light have an iridescent gold or brass look to them. The males are usually slimmer and more colorful than the females. Tiger Barbs are also extremely playful and curious fish. The only drawback is that Tiger Barbs are known to nip the fins of long-finned fish such as Angelfish or fancy Bettas. This problem can be alleviated by keeping them in schools of at least six of the same species.

Danios

Like the other schooling fish mentioned above, danios are also very energetic and fast fish that are a lot of fun to watch. In the meantime, they are very peaceful and non-aggressive fish that have almost zero reputation for bothering any other fish in a community tank. Most danios are also quite hardy and easy to keep, great for beginners. They will do great in groups of five or six.

Some of the most popular danios are the Giant Danio and Zebra Danio. The Giant Danio can grow up to four inches long and is a very hardy fish. The bottom of its body is a bluish gray, while their fins are transparent with just a hint of yellow. The most striking color comes from the yellow and blue stripes and markings that cover the Giant Danio’s sides.

The Zebra Danio has been called one of the “bread and butter” fish because of its ease of keeping, continued popularity, and its favorable price and availability. The males have gold stripes and blue-black stripes and females tend to have silver stripes in place of the gold ones. Zebra Danios grow up to about two or three inches long. They are slightly less hardy than most other tropical fish in terms of temperatures, doing best at a lower temperature of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

As for food, barbs, danios, and tetras are largely omnivorous (eating both animal and vegetable foods) and will eat just about anything. They will eat dried, commercial flake food or freeze dried foods, but should also occasionally be treated to live foods such as blood worms, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae. The best temperature for most tropical fish, including most schooling fish (unless otherwise stated) in this article, is around 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the pH range should be between 6 and 8.

Most barbs, danios, and tetras do not pose a problem when mixed together, including males. They may sometimes break out of schools and chase each other, but usually they do not cause any trouble or injury as they are simply enjoying life and having fun. And although a few schooling fish such as the Tiger Barb may nip the fins of some long-finned fish, as long as they are kept in a school of five or six of their own species, they will cause no trouble.

One thing to avoid with schooling fish is adding a new member to the school. Any school of fish will establish a pecking order in the aquarium. When you add a new member of this species, then entire school order is disrupted. The established members of the school are healthy, familiar with each other, and adapted to life in your aquarium. The newly introduced member of the school has not had the opportunity to settle into your aquarium and is stressed from the move. The easy solution to this problem is to simply add all of the members of a school to the aquarium on the same day.

All in all, schooling fish can add spectacular color, beauty, energy, and fun to a community aquarium. If you have not tried schooling fish yet, there is no reason not to. Beautiful, easy-to-keep, and relatively inexpensive, most are ideal for the beginning hobbyist yet exciting enough for the seasoned fish owner. If you have any questions regarding schooling fish and their care, just ask us and we will help you any way we can.

Watching the fish can have a calming effect on these kids. As they watch the fish, they will get interested in them and can learn about both fish and nature. Also, listening to the hum of the filter or the water moving across the top of the water can be soothing.  Taking care of an aquarium is also a good way to teach responsibility for kids.

So get your kids involved with the care and enjoyment of your fish aquarium, and let them enjoy the benefits of have an aquarium in your home!

In this article, we will give you a list of the timeless classics to keep in mind when it comes to raising fish and maintaining your aquarium in good working order. The following is a list of guidelines that pertains to tropical freshwater fish. Most fish owners keep tropical freshwater fish, and there are nearly endless varieties to choose from (please check out the Pet World fact article on tropical freshwater fish to determine if your fish is a tropical freshwater fish).

1. To prevent cracks and fissures, as well as wobbling and instability, make sure your aquarium is set on a flat, strong surface, such as an aquarium stand.
2. After you set up your aquarium, you must wait for it to become established before adding any fish. Aquariums are considered established after 6 to 8 weeks. Established means that there are enough beneficial bacteria present to break down the toxins from the food and waste.
3. After your aquarium has had the 6 to 8 weeks to get established, start adding the fish a few at a time. When adding new fish, make sure that you acclimate them to your aquarium: first float the bag containing the fish in the tank for about 5 minutes, then add about 8 ounces of aquarium water into the bag. Do this about 5 times, adding water every 5 minutes or so. Then you may empty the bag with the fish into the aquarium.
4. Do not overcrowd the tank. Keep about one fish or less per gallon of aquarium water. Usually the rule is that a fish that is approximately 1 inch long should have one gallon of water, and a fish that grows up to approximately 2 inches long should have two gallons of water for itself, and so on.
5. The pH range of interest to the tropical fish keeper is between pH 5 and pH 9, with the vast majority of fish requiring a pH between 6 and 8. The pH range quoted for a given species may be based on its native waters. Although it might be desirable to mimic these conditions to some extent, the fish may be quite capable of thriving at a slightly different pH. All in all, providing a stable pH kept between about 6 and 8 is usually more important than having an exact value, as long as extremes and sudden changes are avoided. Aquarium pH testers and testing kits are carried at your local pet store.
6. A good temperature for tropical fish is around 78 degrees, although a range from 76 to 80 degrees is usually fine too. Just as with the pH, providing a stable temperature kept between about 76 and 80 is usually more important than having an exact value, as long as extremes and sudden changes are avoided. A few types of tropical fish, such as goldfish, are extremely hardy when it comes to temperatures and they usually do not need heaters in their aquariums. Thermometers are carried at your local pet store.
7. Feed your fish very sparingly, as fish can be easily overfed. You can feed your fish 1 or 2 times per day, but just a few flakes per fish, and make sure that all food can be finished in about 5 to 10 minutes. Never allow food to accumulate on the bottom of the tank or get sucked up into the filter. You can prevent this by not overfeeding. Remember that overfeeding is one of the biggest contributors to dirty aquariums and sick fish. There is also a more detailed article dedicated to the subject of fish foods and proper feeding techniques on the Pet World facts page, click here to get to it.
8. For the first 6 weeks after setting up an aquarium, change about 1/3 of the aquarium water about once a week for smaller aquariums (10 to 20 gallon tanks), and do this once every other week for larger aquariums (larger than 20 gallons).
9. After the first 6 weeks, you should continue to change aquarium water (1/3 only, never all) about once a month, to help keep your aquarium clean and your fish healthy. You may need to change your water more often if you keep a lot of fish in your aquarium as it will get dirty quicker. You should also change the water right away if the water looks very cloudy or if the fish look stressed. Always make sure to condition or dechlorinate the new water and get it to about the same temperature as the existing water before adding it to the tank.
10. Make sure that all filters and heaters are working well. Also make sure that you buy a large enough filter. Buy one that is larger than the manufacture recommends for your size aquarium. If you use a carbon filter, change the carbon filter on your tank about once a month. It is usually better to use an under-gravel filter with a power head and a power filter.

If you have a cat or a dog, and your pet maybe is getting on in years, you may notice that your pet has put on a few pounds. Dogs and cats, as they age, slow down in metabolism and are just not as active.  Their slower metabolism combined with less activity may cause them to gain weight. Just like with us humans, too much weight gain can be very bad for your pet. With a lot of dog breeds, such as dachshunds, and other long bodied breeds, the back and spine can be hurt with extra weight around the middle.  Extra fat on dogs and cats can cause many health problems.  A little extra weight may not hurt much, but a lot of extra weight can be very damaging.

Try to limit your pet’s food intake by feeding a set amount of food, rather than feeding an unlimited amount.  If your pet is older, there are many senior, low fat , foods that can be fed. Try to avoid table scraps, as they can cause your pet to become a little heavy.  Even if your pet is not old, you can find lower fat, lower calorie foods for them.  There are even special feeding bowls to help slow down your dog’s eating.

SLOW FEEDING BOWL MED

SLOW FEEDING BOWL LRG

SLOW FEEDING BOWL JUMBO

Koi and carp have always been very popular in Japan and China, and in most parts of Asia. Koi, and its direct ancestor the carp, have long been the stuff of legend in this part of the world. To the Japanese, carp and koi traditionally embody strength, courage and determination. The Chinese call koi the king of freshwater fish, and regard it as a symbol of good fortune and celebration. Koi are often referred to as “living jewels” or “swimming flowers” because of their tremendous color and color variations. All koi have similarly shaped bodies and fins, but they come in a variety of different colors and patterns such as gold, silver, orange, red, blue, black, white, and all kinds of combinations of these colors. All koi also come with adorable whiskers on their faces, called barbels.

Koi can grow up to 3 feet (36 inches) in length and can weigh over 5 pounds each! The growth rate and final size of your koi will also depend on water quality and conditions, feeding methods, and the size of the pond or how crowded the pool is. With optimum conditions, the average growth rate for a healthy koi is 2 to 4 inches at the end of the first year, 6 to 8 inches at the end of the second year, and 10 to 12 inches at the end of the third year. After the third year, the growth pattern slows down as the koi nears its maximum length.

Koi are very hardy and are fairly easy to keep, and also have a pretty long lifespan. Most koi can live at least 25 to 35 years, and with good water conditions and proper care, 50 to 100 years would not be unusual. In Japan, koi are frequently passed on to the next generation. The oldest known specimen, a red female named Hanako, was owned by Nagoya University President Komei Koshihara. Though Hanako died in 1977, a microscopic examination of one of her scales proved that she was born 226 years before her death in 1977 – she was born a few years before the United States made its debut as a nation!

To have the best quality koi that look the best and that are disease free, proper care is essential. Having adequate pond space is a very important part of this care. In fact, pond size is the main factor in determining how many koi you can keep and the quality of your koi. You can try to put half a dozen koi in 1000 gallons, but the koi will probably not grow very large or look very good. As a rule of thumb, every full size koi should have about 500 gallons to itself.

The other reason for having adequate pond space is that the smaller or more overcrowded a pond (or an aquarium) is, the lower the quality of the water. Overcrowding koi in a pond will contribute to fish stress, and greater potential for parasitic diseases and bacterial infections. Having adequate space in the pond will help the koi stay healthy and live long. The pond should also be deep enough, at least 3 feet deep. This will keep your pond cooler in the summer months, warmer in the winter months, and keep predators like raccoons and herons from eating your fish.

In the old days back in Japan, these gorgeous creatures were housed in lushly landscaped outdoor fish ponds. The ponds were constructed to provide adequate oxygenation and had a large turnover of water to ensure high water quality and filtration. With a little bit of energy and time, you can also create such an environment for your koi, or at least get pretty close to it. You can rely on either natural methods, mechanical methods, or a combination of both to achieve a healthy pond with proper aeration and filtration.

The natural method usually consists of planting some water plants in the pond to provide sufficient oxygenation and aeration for the fish, and adding a few scavengers such as snails and catfish into the pond for cleaning up wastes from the bottom of the pond. In addition to providing oxygenation and aeration, water plants also serve to further beautify your pond, help keep the water clear, and help reduce the growth of algae that can be unsightly and consume too many nutrients from the water.

If you find that your pond is not being kept clean and clear enough by natural methods, or if you plan to keep a lot of koi in the pond, you may want to use mechanical methods or a combination of natural and mechanical methods for the aeration and filtration of your pond. You would also probably need to use mechanical methods for aeration and filtration if you are keeping your koi in an aquarium, though aquarium use is not recommended for koi unless the aquarium is of a very good size. A good pump and filter system will filter the pond’s (or aquarium’s) entire volume every couple of hours, removing solid and chemical waste from your pond pretty much completely.

You can get filters that come with aerators built into them. These filters will return the water to the pond by a waterfall or fountain, which not only looks very nice but also aerates the pond extremely well. Another type of popular filter is the biological filter, which is a container that is usually filled with a medium on which bacteria will grow, and they would consume most of the waste from the water. Whichever filter you use, you should clean it at least twice a year to keep it working properly and efficiently.

With sufficient natural and/or mechanical aeration and filtration, cleaning or changing the pond water once a year in the early spring should be sufficient. However, if you notice your pond getting pretty dirty and overgrown with algae, or if you suspect chemical pollution, then you might want to change the water. In that case, change 20% of the water in your pond once a week or so for a few weeks. This simply means removing about 20% of the old water from your pond and replacing it with fresh tap water from the faucet. Avoid changing all the water at once. Scooping out leaves and other debris from the pond regularly using a net is another easy way to help keep the water clean and clear.

Overall, koi are remarkably hardy and healthy fish, much more so than even goldfish or other tropical fish. Koi can withstand a wide range of temperatures. Healthy koi can even survive under the ice in extreme cold as long as the water does not freeze solid. They will not move around or eat much if the pond water is very cold, basically hibernating. Needless to say, koi generally do not need heating. Of course, for optimum health and comfort of the fish, it is recommended that you avoid huge fluctuations in temperature and pH of the water, and perhaps use some heating during the winter months. As for food, feeding koi once or twice a day is good. There are a variety of pellet fish foods that are specially designed for koi. Koi can also be fed dried or fresh shrimp, lettuce, cooked rice or cooked oats.

Keeping koi requires some space and work, but raising them is a very fascinating and rewarding hobby. Their beauty, fame, hardiness, and longevity make them well worth it. For the avid koi enthusiast, there are koi shows in which koi compete according to their size and class, often for huge prizes. There are also hundreds of koi clubs throughout the U.S. and the rest of the world.